DYNO Result Low - Help!

[EUR003act]

Why cant I on ozhonda? I owned many Honda b4 and an EUro as well.
New model is up soon and you want a one of a kind car... you may have luck when u are the first customer order the new euro then

I just feel a waste of money on performance mod on a EUro from my exp on my euro.

i wasnt saying you cant be on ozhonda... but for someone with 350G as their name, newcomer written underneath it, to tell me not to waste money on a honda, didnt say much to me...

being the first to buy a car doesnt make you special - it just means itll depreciate faster than someone who waits a year (and you'll loose alot of mone on an unproven car!)

Sorry to be off topic a bit but:

New Euro won't be till 2009:

http://www.motorauthority.com/news/s...uro-acura-tsx/

Besides, going off the release of the Accord (Inspire) and its new engine, the new Euro would be lucky to have about a 20kw increase in power. It is just going to have the new A-VTEC 2.4 I4, still FWD. So I think the current model has far more potential for power gains as it has been around since 2003 and far more supported products are available. In term of modifying why wait for the new one, you'll be in the exact same position most euro owners were in when the car was released.

haha yes! thanks for that buddy... and yes i agree, K24 has potential to be the best honda engine... yes the K20 has more power stock, but thats only kw - not torque... the K24 can easily be beefed up to beat many turbo'd engines...
not going into disputes and all that stuff (been down that road before) but i love honda K-series engines, im sure every honda owner would agree, i see no need to sell my euro... besides its not all about power, do WRXs ave heated leather seats? (i live in canberra - u should understand the importance of these during winter)

[aaronng]

Stop the hate or I'll have to close poor Suntzu's thread.

Suntzu, your A/F ratios are fine. They are actually better than mine. If I remember correctly, mine was reading 10.2:1 all the through VTEC. You should have warmed your engine up fully. 4km is insufficient to get to operating temperature in time for any redline full throttle runs. Instead of worrying about the low power, I'd be more worried about engine wear from revving a cold engine. Since your car doesn't feel like 86.5kW when you drive on the street, I'd say the dyno's either out of whack or he printed the wrong dyno file.

[aaronng]

and firstly find out if ur car was in 3rd gear or 4th gear when doing the dyno
from what i know, 3rd tends to give a higher reading when pulled all theh way to redline than when a car is dyno tested in 4th gear all the way to redline.

From the cutoff at 180 for both Suntzu and EUR003act's dyno, they were both done in 4th gear.

if it was done in 3rd and u got that figure, then get ur A/F ratio's checked. make sure ur not running rich.

then dyno again

Suntzu's AFR is fine. Mine was richer than his when I did my dyno run. EUR003act's AFR however looks very much like a torque curve. LOL

[yfin]

Its really low as you can see and the manager told me my car is running ULTRA RICH. He told me to get honda to have a look at it.

this guy doesn't know what he is on about. And why did you only do one dyno run and what gear was this?

[BiLL|z0r]

this guy doesn't know what he is on about. And why did you only do one dyno run and what gear was this?

Thats a good point. My first run was very low too, then 2nd higher, then 3rd the best. I'll look at my dyno sheet when I get to work and even scan it in if you like. Even though it's a 5AT it may help or at least give something to compare to.

[tony1234]

IMO Suntzu stuff the dyno results.It's the butt dyno that counts.

[Suntzu]

Thanks Yfin and aaronng. Thats the kind of info i was after.

I think it was a combo of a cold engine and the wrong gear and only 2 runs.

I took my car for a hit and it easily under 8 secs for the 1-100.

Im not so worried now. Thanks for the constructive advice.

You other guys need to get girlfriends and CTFD.

[albii]

sell yr car and get something better b4 u put so much money on it.

your a moron mate......you know the guy sitting next to you at the lights in his audi tt is saying the same thing about you.

[Tobster]

Slightly off-topic, but this is just a few thoughts about the 130 kW dyno:

It would seem to me that it comes back to the old argument that dynos don't reflect real world driving conditions. An SRI is probably the most effective intake for the greatest power gain -- but they generally don't work as well in real driving conditions due to heat soak. Put an SRI on a dyno though, with an open bonnet and a big fan blowing lots of cold air, and you'll probably see an impressive result.

The moral of the story: use the dyno to compare if a mod has made any difference, but that will be under THOSE particular conditions and may not reflect real-world driving -- so treat dyno results with care.

The other things I would suggest (and it's possibly not such an issue in a manual car, but there may be something) is that the engine management learns from the way you drive. I remember reading when Wheels had an auto Euro for a long term; they timed it doing laps of the car park. After a week of driving hard and fast, they shaved a second off their times -- because the computer had learnt that it was to go hard and fast.

I suppose I'm suggesting that if you only tootle around town, then the engine isn't going to respond to its highest output if you go stic it on a dyno. Drive it hard for a few days, and then go dyno it -- and you might find a difference.

I think it was Yfin (can't find the post) who said some time ago that his car felt more responsive the day after going for a weekend blat. The computer learned to respond in a more sporting manner.

Just a few thoughts (don't take it as gospel)...

[aaronng]

Also, VSA should have been turned off because the ECU sees a dyno as a wheelspin condition and can keep cutting and restoring throttle to counter it. When I did my dyno, VSA was turned off and after 3 runs, none of my ABS/VSA/CEL warning lights were flashing.

To all those arguing about the dyno sheet being real or fake, "shootout mode" means that no calibration was made to relate dyno rolling speed to the engine RPM. In addition, no temperature and pressure corrections are made unlike what US dynos do with the new SAE corrected method. The purpose of shootout mode is to make all dyno runs on that particular dyno day to be comparable to each other (if the temperature increases as the dyno day goes on, then it is detrimental to the later runners). Therefore, you can't compare dynos carried out on different days because of temperature and pressure changes let alone compare dyno readings from different dynos (maintenance, calibration and location issues).

[350G]

your a moron mate......you know the guy sitting next to you at the lights in his audi tt is saying the same thing about you.

Just an Audi TT is not good enough to say this my friend.
I never said you are stupid modifying a Euro as I did exactly the same before on MYEURO. But now i was just wasting my money performance wise. Dont get me wrong.

[350G]

i wasnt saying you cant be on ozhonda... but for someone with 350G as their name, newcomer written underneath it, to tell me not to waste money on a honda, didnt say much to me...

being the first to buy a car doesnt make you special - it just means itll depreciate faster than someone who waits a year (and you'll loose alot of mone on an unproven car!)

I am actually talking to Suntzu . He said "I've decided to do a heap of mods to my engine which is stock at the moment." which is exactly the same thing I was told ages ago. Now I felt he is right and I just advise him not to spend $ on HEAPS OF MODS to his engine. That's what i am saying. BTW, I got a new login name b4 you join this site =).