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  1. #25
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    Dec 2005
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    Candy Cane Grove.
    Car:
    JDM70Y
    Quote Originally Posted by ricki_kalsi View Post
    That doesn't matter man! Pick your head up .
    That's why Toda VTEC killer cams were invented!

    You don't need VTEC to be quick, hell what proper Honda race cars have VTEC.

    It's just a gimic to give better fuel economy, and another thing in a race car to break - as it's more complex..
    you gotta admit.. driving a non vtec car is boring. ive been thru my stock motor d16a8 twice. then b16 now b18.

    my 2c save that money you got for an ls/vtec conversion,

    slap a b16a head on that b18b block and have a hybrid,

    you can source a head for about 500 bux, if you want i can point you to the right direction,

    ive been in your shoes wasting money on my non vtec. i used to think just a few mods wont hurt, then you start wasting so much money on a motor that just keeps getting whoopd..

    ls/vtec , other words the poor mans type r.

    have a think about it.

    btw im not saying you have to.. just my exp, dont want anyone else to go thru the thousands of bucks for nothing
    +kyobi imaging / Shooting star

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  2. #26
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    Dec 2004
    Location
    [ACT]
    Car:
    Integra
    RMNI5N has a good point. i was really keen on doing an LS/VTEC on mine, but at the end of the day i cbf it and would rather turbo it. so atm im slowly trying to collect parts for a turbo build.

    dont worry man vtec isnt everything lol, it is good though especially the sound on a b18c7. its up to you, the b18b has a little more torque but a lower rev range.

    IMHO things like a lightened flywheel, changine the FD such as a vtir gearbox would make the most improvemnts on our engines.

    people inthe states cut 1/4 mile times by 0.3-0.4 seconds by getting rid of the long ls gearbox.

    theres so many things you could do, i guess i have kept mine because im a poor uni student haha but yeh have a goal and work towards that.

    in regards to the dyno sheet - i know dynos dont mean anything, i could have gotten 70 at someother place or 100 at another. but im happy with the powerband that i have, from 4000rpm up things are good lol
    Last edited by dudeling7; 29-02-2008 at 01:27 PM.

  3. #27
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    Oct 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    DC2-R
    Why not be more unique. Buy a CRV bottom end, and then a B16 head! Then you have a B20, which has an awsome amount of torque. Also it's a better base to work with. change some internals, and you have an absolute beast.

  4. #28
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    Dec 2005
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    Candy Cane Grove.
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    JDM70Y
    Quote Originally Posted by ricki_kalsi View Post
    Why not be more unique. Buy a CRV bottom end, and then a B16 head! Then you have a B20, which has an awsome amount of torque. Also it's a better base to work with. change some internals, and you have an absolute beast.
    why would you buy that?
    yes they have alot of torque however
    they dont rev high,
    example, standard b16a head +b20 block (standard)
    you can only rev up to 7200rpm at most

    or u'll blow somthing.

    cheapest solution because he already has the b18b block, slap the b16a head on with mild internals like cam shafts / gears - I/H/E

    would be sweet.
    +kyobi imaging / Shooting star

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  5. #29
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    Sep 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    CT9A
    [quote=RMN15N;1562978]
    you can only rev up to 7200rpm at most

    quote]

    Wrong, standard B20 blocks up to 8200rpm safely with APR rod bolts. Its all in the tuning. Our last b20 rev'ed to 8800rpm all day everyday no problem.

  6. #30
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    Dec 2004
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    Integra
    Quote Originally Posted by RMN15N View Post
    why would you buy that?
    yes they have alot of torque however
    they dont rev high,
    example, standard b16a head +b20 block (standard)
    you can only rev up to 7200rpm at most

    or u'll blow somthing.

    cheapest solution because he already has the b18b block, slap the b16a head on with mild internals like cam shafts / gears - I/H/E

    would be sweet.


    But even with a b18b bottom end you cannot take it up to 8000rpm all the time, i would at least reccomment rod bolts and maybe head studs as well, as the ls rod bolts are a weak point. but yeh its pretty easily doable, everything adds up though, i guess it depends on how reliable you want it.

    just boost it haha

  7. #31
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    Dec 2005
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    Candy Cane Grove.
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    JDM70Y
    [QUOTE=fatboyz39;1563029]
    Quote Originally Posted by RMN15N View Post
    you can only rev up to 7200rpm at most

    quote]

    Wrong, standard B20 blocks up to 8200rpm safely with APR rod bolts. Its all in the tuning. Our last b20 rev'ed to 8800rpm all day everyday no problem.
    typo. i ment 8200 + standard the blocks are weak.
    also to add , it depends on what kinda driver you are. if u thrash it around heaps and take it 8200 all the time on the standard block.. well gg to you.
    Last edited by RMN15N; 01-03-2008 at 11:42 AM.
    +kyobi imaging / Shooting star

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  8. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by dudeling7 View Post
    But even with a b18b bottom end you cannot take it up to 8000rpm all the time, i would at least reccomment rod bolts and maybe head studs as well, as the ls rod bolts are a weak point. but yeh its pretty easily doable, everything adds up though, i guess it depends on how reliable you want it.

    just boost it haha
    if you do it right you'll rev to 9.5
    thats what mine is supposed to rev at.

    but i dont think it makes power after 9.

    gotta get it retuned then see whats going on from there.
    +kyobi imaging / Shooting star

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  9. #33
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    Sep 2004
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    CT9A
    [quote=RMN15N;1563197]if you do it right you'll rev to 9.5
    thats what mine is supposed to rev at.

    quote]

    LOL LS/VTEC revving to 9.5k..... What head? Ported? cam? valve springs? valves?

    Without a good combo of parts that engine won't make power no more then 8k.

  10. #34
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    Nov 2005
    Location
    Adelaide
    Car:
    XR6 Turbo
    Quote Originally Posted by RMN15N View Post
    why would you buy that?
    yes they have alot of torque however
    they dont rev high,
    example, standard b16a head +b20 block (standard)
    you can only rev up to 7200rpm at most

    or u'll blow somthing.

    cheapest solution because he already has the b18b block, slap the b16a head on with mild internals like cam shafts / gears - I/H/E

    would be sweet.
    Im assuming you have first hand experience building and driving a B20VTEC?

    But I would agree since he already has B18b might as well just build a LSVTEC
    Last edited by ZeForce; 01-03-2008 at 12:41 PM.
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    B20VTEC Build Thread

  11. #35
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    Feb 2008
    Location
    Lala Land SA
    Car:
    EG5, PP1
    ive really considered getting the ls/vtec conversion coz it wouldnt b 2 pricey with decent powergains. But i have thought it through plenty of times n pretty much came 2 the conclusion that im not gna do any engine swaps (uless by chance i come across a ridicolousy cheap b18c7 or k20... which i doubt) or internal work. Just wana add some bolt ons 2 give the car a few more kw's.

    Just wanna say thanks 4 ur guys contribution n comments, really appreciate it, uve all stated some decent points... but as i had always dreamed of a type-r (or perhaps a DC5-S) i rekon im not gna blow 2 much cash on the ol' gsi which will make savin 4 the next car a bit easier.

    Cheers 4 ur feedback Dudeling, i rekon i might follow ur footsteps with the exhaust/extractors, clutch/flywheel mods... that might just 4 it... at the end of the day all that matters is that i put those bogans in their VLs in my rearview where they belong haha
    Getting there...

  12. #36
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    Feb 2008
    Location
    Lala Land SA
    Car:
    EG5, PP1
    ...disregard this... im just dreamin a bit... but it would be pretty frikken sweet 2 have a DC2R n DC4 turbs sittin in my garage... if i won the lottery i hav no doubt id go through wit it... dreamz dreamz dreamz!
    Getting there...

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