Opinions - B18CR Bottom End with Alaniz head

**Chr1s** · 20-08-2009 10:45 AM

86mm on standard sleeves. Pushing it, I know.

**Slaz** · 20-08-2009 05:43 PM

Originally Posted by Chr1s

Wheels Slaz, I'm hunting around the 2.1 area. I'm still doing some calculations to see where I can realistically make some decent gains. I'd still like to retain the standard stroke. It's going to be one highly strung mofo. 86mm on standard sleeves. Pushing it, I know.

EEEKKK, good luck, hope the sleeves and headgasket hold together for you, look forward to hearing how it goes.

**fatboyz39** · 20-08-2009 09:07 PM

86mm? nice say goodbye to the sleeves.

**ewendc2r** · 21-08-2009 08:03 AM

Can I ask this -- IF the sleeves crack etc, are the internal generally salvageable? i.e. If you can pick up B20 blocks on the cheap, why not give it a crack!?

**tinkerbell** · 21-08-2009 09:57 AM

Originally Posted by ewendc2r

Can I ask this -- IF the sleeves crack etc, are the internal generally salvageable? i.e. If you can pick up B20 blocks on the cheap, why not give it a crack!?

sleeves dont crack when the stuff inside of them is stationary.

but luck would play a part in how much damage would be caused.

Chris - what sort of block girdle/bracing will you be employing, if any?

**Chr1s** · 21-08-2009 02:25 PM

Originally Posted by ewendc2r

Can I ask this -- IF the sleeves crack etc, are the internal generally salvageable? i.e. If you can pick up B20 blocks on the cheap, why not give it a crack!?

As tinkerbell said - you won't wake up one morning to find coolant/oil on the floor because the block decided to crack. If the sleeves crack, depending how they crack it can be a case from a hairline crack causing that cylinder to fail, could take out the piston with it or to the extreme of the whole block splitting in two. This happened alot in the 80s when half weighted cranks were buzzed too hard and the harmonics caused the block to split, not from weak sleeves.

TB - A combination of resin filling, guard not too far down from the deck and block posting mid way between the two. This will only provide the sleeves to be rigid from not "wandering" at high rpm/load. The sleeve being able to handle that sort of power with a 2mm thinner sleeve is another story as we both know.

Girdle on the bottom end is a must, pretty scary seeing no girdle down there!!!

**tinkerbell** · 21-08-2009 02:32 PM

Originally Posted by Chr1s

TB - A combination of resin filling, guard not too far down from the deck and block posting mid way between the two. This will only provide the sleeves to be rigid from not "wandering" at high rpm/load.

lol - like holding a crystal champagne flute with a pair of vice-grips? whislt running up stairs?

nah, sounds good - tuning is key, but you know that...

**Benson** · 21-08-2009 02:34 PM

Haha no gridle here and it revs to 9400-9600 at times

Chris, dont bother with the B if your going 86mm, better off starting with a K block

**Chr1s** · 21-08-2009 02:38 PM

Originally Posted by tinkerbell

lol - like holding a crystal champagne flute with a pair of vice-grips? whislt running up stairs?

Havn't had the chance to do that one yet

Benny - Throw more power into your motor Benny, then tell me you don't need to re-inforce the bottom end, it will only be a matter of time until you twist something.

**DR HONDA** · 21-08-2009 02:52 PM

I love oz honda.

**Benson** · 21-08-2009 02:52 PM

It has more than enough power. If it was going to twist, it would of done so on the track. Remember its not a street motor, it gets to see more 9000rpm than any ordinary motor

Seems like your going to too much trouble to do what you want chris

**Chr1s** · 21-08-2009 03:10 PM

Originally Posted by Benson

It has more than enough power. If it was going to twist, it would of done so on the track. Remember its not a street motor, it gets to see more 9000rpm than any ordinary motor

Seems like your going to too much trouble to do what you want chris

I'm not going to bother.