Beeza,
As promised, here’s my critique on some of your earlier points. Please prefix IMO to the front of my comments.

You wrote:
“Clean contact points in the dizzy and lightly sand the rotor on the outer edge where it sparks on the contact points”

The build up on the rotor arm tip and cap electrodes is a good conductor from which a spark propagates easily. Sanding it off increases the gap and does more harm than leaving the build up alone. Excessive build up and / or erosion should be addressed by replacing the rotor arm and dizzy cap.

“Change the oil and oil filter (every 5000km's)”

This isn’t a bad idea of course, but not really needed unless you are doing a lot of slow city driving and / or short trips that don’t allow the oil to remain at full operating temperature for reasonably long periods. If you do a lot of highway / open road driving, then 10,000 km oil changes should be fine. City driving is bad for oil, higher speed / longer distance runs is much less demanding.

Driving in dusty conditions is also a good reason to go to 5000km changes, as is driving involving a lot of hard acceleration.

“Change the fuel filter every 2nd oil change”

Not a bad idea, but overkill, especially as EFI filters aren’t all that cheap. Fuel filters don’t block up all that quickly unless you have an unfortunate encounter with particularly dirty fuel. Other than that I’d stick to Hondas recommended service interval (every 40,000km). If in doubt, do a fuel flow test before replacing the filter.

“Transmission oil is every 20,000km's”

Yes for auto transmission fluid.

For manual gearboxes it can’t hurt, but oil lasts a very long time when not exposed to and contaminated by combustion by-products. I’d put 100,000kms on this, especially if using a purpose formulated manual transmission oil (rather than engine oil).

“Use BP Ultimate 98 fuel only (1/2 a tank max at a time if your keen)”

Too sweeping a statement. Brands aside, and all else being equal, using a higher octane fuel than the engine actually requires doesn’t result in greater power output or better economy than using a lower octane fuel, so long as the engine can use the lower octane without detonation. If the engine runs fine on lower octane fuel then using a higher octane fuel will most probably result in a very slightly lower power output and worsened economy.

This is because the ****tail of chemicals used to increase the octane rating are added to the brew in substantial quantities, displacing a very significant % of the base ‘petrol’ content with substances that have a significantly lesser calorific value, i.e. there is less energy embodied in each CC of higher octane fuel than in each CC of lower octane fuel (i.e. lower octane petrol fuels have a higher calorific value per unit of volume than higher octane).

Note that an engine gains power output and improved economy as the CR is increased. As the CR is increased the need to use higher octane fuel increases, but this is only to avoid ‘detonation’ of the compressing air / fuel mixture. The power and economy increases comes from the higher CR, not from the higher octane fuel.

“Also look into advancing the timing 2-3 degrees”

I won’t say that this won’t improve power output because it well might, but I’d only try this if I were measuring the outcome on a dynamometer. Note that detonation / pre-ignition is usually audible as a ping or rattle, but not always...

“Insulate your fuel lines - prevent the fuel from getting warm/hot”

Any research data to back this up? There may be some potential benefit, but my bet is that at best it’s microscopically small...