View Poll Results: Paint or no paint? IE sleeper or not?

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  • Fix up the dents & paint so it looks fresh

    32 68.09%
  • Leave the paint faded as is, for the sleeper look

    15 31.91%
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Results 37 to 48 of 87
  1. #37
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    QLD
    Car:
    ED Sedan
    Quote Originally Posted by Val View Post
    Been away and very busy lately. Did a little bit of work today, trying to clean out the engine bay as much by removing anything i can. Im thinking i will sand it down and spray it before i start on anything else. I ran into a problem though, i've undone 1 bolt from the hardlines for the brakes, however every single other bolt is rusted to the connections i tried un-doing them, but the spanner just take off an edge of the bolt and comes off. Now i need some ideas on what i can do about it.

    I though use a dremmel to cut off at the hardline ends, then used a flaring tool and replace the screw in bolts, considering i plan on using the DA9 BC and booster.

    Anyone got a flaring tool i could borrow just for a few hours?
    were you using an open ended spanner? if so that tends to happen (corner rounding off). Invest in some flare nut spanners and that will stop happening. Ummmm once they are rounded off the best bet that I know of to remove them from the brake component is with vice grips. Its gonna screw the flare nut but as you've said they are already screwed.

    Flare nut spanner ref image:


  2. #38
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    ED3; ED6; GZ
    Quote Originally Posted by vtecing View Post
    i bet the supra will always be the daily. the civic will end up being some kind of track monster
    What i see happening is that they both might become track monsters haha.

    Quote Originally Posted by markismaximus View Post
    were you using an open ended spanner? if so that tends to happen (corner rounding off). Invest in some flare nut spanners and that will stop happening. Ummmm once they are rounded off the best bet that I know of to remove them from the brake component is with vice grips. Its gonna screw the flare nut but as you've said they are already screwed.

    Flare nut spanner ref image:
    Thank man. I haven't seen these things before, i might check bunnings today for some of these bad boys.

  3. #39
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Front yard
    Car:
    4WD 89 Concerto
    there sometimes called pipe spanners aswell
    OEM parts whore

  4. #40
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    ED3; ED6; GZ
    picked up a set at SCA today. Went it to get more car stands, but they were sold out. Bastards. I paid the full $60 for a set few weeks ago, now they go on sale for $20 each.

    These spanners work well, already used them on to remove rear brake lines. Did my first actual mod today, rear disc conversion from a DA9. Pics up later.

    Here's something i picked up on the weekend:

    CRV manual cluster

    DA9 front and rear disk brakes


    And had the chance to pull these out

    and put these in


    Also gave the wheel well a clean. The disks are rusty, but they will clean up as soon as i take the car for a drive.

    Also these are some of the brake bolts still in the brake lines. I can use these with the new brake master and booster cylinders and proportioning valve. Ill track down some more, i also picked up a pipe flaring kit so i can cut out the stuffed bolts and replace with new bolts and flare the lines and connect them up. I can use the lines running to the front brakes from my ED3, but the rears i'll have to flare out and replace the bolts as the lines are way too long and the ones from the sedan wouldn't match the hatch.
    Last edited by Val; 20-04-2010 at 12:18 AM.

  5. #41
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    North Parramatta, Sydney
    Car:
    ED6 B16a
    Quote Originally Posted by Val View Post
    picked up a set at SCA today. Went it to get more car stands, but they were sold out. Bastards. I paid the full $60 for a set few weeks ago, now they go on sale for $20 each.

    These spanners work well, already used them on to remove rear brake lines. Did my first actual mod today, rear disc conversion from a DA9. Pics up later.
    How much was the set Val? Need to grab a set myself.

    Doing the rear brake conversion on my ED hopefully sometime this week ^_^
    Car Detailing Addict.

  6. #42
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    ED3; ED6; GZ
    Dave the kit was $15.29 . Its metric, you get 10-12; 13-14; 15-17 spanners from memory.

  7. #43
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    ED3; ED6; GZ
    Im also trying to think ahead for the best job, the wiring. My ED3 had a d16 running of a p28, and the rest of the car/cabin was still connected to the standard ECU. I would like to avoid using 2 ECU's, and have everything wired into the p28. Looking at other build threads, it looks like i would be better off to go with a full EG Vti loom and swap plugs to make it run like Mark did, compared to trying to splice in ED cabin harness into the EG Vti.
    Last edited by Val; 19-04-2010 at 11:31 PM.

  8. #44
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    North Parramatta, Sydney
    Car:
    ED6 B16a
    Im dreading the wiring as well.
    I will most likely use the full wiring loom from the DA and change whatever plugs needed.
    Car Detailing Addict.

  9. #45
    Moderator Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Car:
    Honda Civic VTi
    Quote Originally Posted by Val View Post
    ... compared to trying to splice in ED cabin harness into the EG Vti one like Peter did.
    Peter didn't do that.

    I used the VTi ECU with full VTi engine harness, and full EG6 cabin harness. The only splicing was to join the rear loom (controlling the rear lights, hatch open, etc) to the EG6 loom. I've still gone that route but used a new loom and connecting plug halfway along the side of the car. My problems all stem from the original importer cutting some of the crucial plugs off around the fuse box and on the passenger side, because they were too lazy to remove them from the Jap spec Civic the loom came out of. Given that wiring information is almost non-existent for both Aus and JDM delivered cars (in a readable format by a non-electrician) it makes the job of identifying wires and their functions damn near impossible. The only way to do it, as Markis has done, is to get a FULL , UNCUT VTi harness and use it (because the Vti D16 harness is the same as the B16A JDM EG6 harness, plug for plug.

    Peter

    PS. Dave, you won't have any issues.
    Still here. Still kickin'

  10. #46
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    ED3; ED6; GZ
    Quote Originally Posted by jdm_b16a View Post
    Peter didn't do that.
    Sorry, my mistake.

    Ok so to make it clear, i need to get a complete uncut harness from either an EG Vti or Vti-R?

    Also, pics are up on the above post.
    Last edited by Val; 20-04-2010 at 12:19 AM.

  11. #47
    Moderator Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    '90 EF8/'94 EH9
    EG VTi will be easy, lots of D16Y1's around on the market.

  12. #48
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    QLD
    Car:
    ED Sedan
    Quote Originally Posted by Val View Post
    Sorry, my mistake.

    Ok so to make it clear, i need to get a complete uncut harness from either an EG Vti or Vti-R?

    Also, pics are up on the above post.
    Its unlikely you'll find an uncut EG B16A JDM harness as most if not all would come in as half-cuts. So yes a full EG VTi harness would be the ideal harness to use.

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