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  1. #73
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    May 2010
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    2000 DC2R
    Plan to do this tomorrow will degreaser be fine to clean the iacv and TB bits and pieces? i got like 2 cans spare from when i cleaned my engine so wondering if i would have to go down to supercheap for some carby cleaner. BTW that electric tester thing you used, can something similar be purchased from supercheap?

  2. #74
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    far out so hard just to take the bottom left nut off, i cant even turn it because when the socket just fits in, its touching this hard piece of plastic tubing that i think is connected to the fuel. Been trying to get it out for like 30mins LOL, anyways bak to work.

  3. #75
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    May 2010
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    Hey beeza just a tip for you to update your DIY. The rivets aren't actually rivets, they are screws without a head on them. basically get a hack saw and hack a straight line deep enough for a flat head screw driver to unscrew. You can then re-use the piece to calibrate the tps.

  4. #76
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    Sep 2006
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    91 eg5 b16a
    Thanks mate!

    The degreaser ya probably found out is ok...carby cleaner is better,but Suburu UEC is the best I reckon.

    What bottom left screw is that? Did U try and take the IACV off with the TB still on? That's sooooo hard,best to take the TB off to get the IACV off.

    Thanks for that tip mate.

  5. #77
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    May 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by beeza View Post
    Thanks mate!

    The degreaser ya probably found out is ok...carby cleaner is better,but Suburu UEC is the best I reckon.

    What bottom left screw is that? Did U try and take the IACV off with the TB still on? That's sooooo hard,best to take the TB off to get the IACV off.

    Thanks for that tip mate.
    Bottom left screw from the Tb, u know how theres 2 screws and 2 nut things. Had trouble getting the bottom left one off with the space provided xD

    Trying to undo the CT nut to turn the screw. All my socket pieces are to big and then i got 2 which are to small LOL =/ Might have to finish this off 2morro. I did get the WOT voltage on 4.50.
    Last edited by EK1 Civic; 09-07-2010 at 05:22 PM.

  6. #78
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    Oh brilliant well done,U should be able to 'crack' the TS screw with the allen key.There's 2 small dabs of a glue that binds that small nut on there to the TB.

    Yeah thats the bolt,not screw..it's all about having the right tools,I use a socket with a long extension for that one,and the other bottom bolt,so there's room to turn it.

    I forgot to answer before but sounds like ya got a multimeter,supacheap should sell em'!

    Awesome stuff mate!!

    Now to 'Go all the way!' - Free power!

  7. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by beeza View Post
    Oh brilliant well done,U should be able to 'crack' the TS screw with the allen key.There's 2 small dabs of a glue that binds that small nut on there to the TB.

    Yeah thats the bolt,not screw..it's all about having the right tools,I use a socket with a long extension for that one,and the other bottom bolt,so there's room to turn it.

    I forgot to answer before but sounds like ya got a multimeter,supacheap should sell em'!

    Awesome stuff mate!!

    Now to 'Go all the way!' - Free power!
    Cant u just twist the nut off and it would break the glue? and then twist the screw with your finger? I cbf modifying my stock tb for more airflow, rather leave it stock so i don't damage anything. Going to learn how to change coolant fluid/mt fluid and add a CAI feed for the stock box once i'm done doing the CT voltage.

  8. #80
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    Yes U can do that but not really by hand,U would need a small shifter at least.U might be able to twist the screw by ya finger but depends on the screw,it might be tight and need the allen key to turn it,U will need the allen key anyways to be precise with the turning as to get the calibration right!

    Maybe U can do the other mod later when U are more confident but it's not hard,the DIY covers everything.I have a y4y7/maybe y1 TB for sale here that would be perfect for the mod.

    What engine do U have?

    With the coolant fluid,if U change it yourself U will be just changing the coolant in the radiatorand a small amount from the hoses,i.e. there is still a lot of coolant in there that hasn't been changed.The other way is to take it to a radiator shop and for $130 they will 'reverse flush' it all out,cleaning all the crap out that builds up because it's it reverse,this is great to do once if its never been done and ya car has at least 80-100,000 k's on it say.After that once U can just change it by ya self knowing ya coolant is in great health!

    The mt fluid,I recommend to jack the car up on the side,so its on a mad angle as to help the last of the fluid out,then pour a bit of new fluid in there to help flush the old fluid out.This helps to get the dirty fluid that is at the bottom out.

    So stoked ya done this mate,that's a hell of a lot more for what I can say about most if not all 'pros' on here.They are just like 'Ah,ya don't need to do that' to me that says 'No,U cant show me what I dont know,I will REJECT it!' Ahahahahaaa that's just ego,too much ego on here,which is ashame cause Ozhonda is the best car site of em' all!!! No bloody wonder the other's just suck.Cars,ego,ego,cars,hard to seperate them a lot of the time unfortunately.

  9. #81
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    May 2010
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    Kinda stuck on money atm, got driving lessons, P's coming in 4 weeks. New rego in a month to pay. =/ getting the car set, so it runs tip top for when i get my P's and its my daily drive. It barely gets driven 2-3 times a week as it is xD its got 104,000km on the odo.

    Got a picture of an Allen key? i got one but i don't see how it helps, least i think i got one it came with my desk chair to tighten up the screws with tat hexagon indentation. The allen key has no hole to grab the nut and twist it out =/

    I got the same engine as you, d16y4. Changed the coolant today, weird thing is it stays at 1800 revs and goes to 1200 or a tad less and bounces back and fourth. I think airs still stuck but i did leave it with the cap off, i didn't hear any fans turn on though. Is the bouncy idle due to the fact of having air in the system? Its my guess but im unsure atm. Flushed the radiator to, if tat helps. I posted a thread in the noob forum with a better description. http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...35#post2794135
    Last edited by EK1 Civic; 10-07-2010 at 06:54 PM.

  10. #82
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    Just google image 'allen key'

    I haven't heard of air causing that..

    It sounds like it's the FITV that needs adjusting - http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...just-The-FITV.

    Wait,did U already clean the IACV out?
    Last edited by beeza; 12-07-2010 at 04:53 PM.

  11. #83
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    I cleaned out everything since i took apart the TB. Only happened once i flushed the radiator and changed the coolant. I'll tell you tomorrow if i fix the problem and how it drives since i've finished the tps voltages.

  12. #84
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    I would park the car on a steep inclne,front to the top of the hill (helps the air out by rising to the top/radiator), ,start the car,take off the radiator cap,and let all the bubbles of air out,sqeeze/pump the coolant hoses to help out the trapped air.Do this until the air stops,may take 10-15 minutes.

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