if you have a look at one of my old thread on my car you'll find some details on the dc2r 5 stud conversion.
my recommendation, don't do it unless you plan do it it properly which is a lot of work.
as mooshie said..if you do it the lazy way ( like me rushing it for the track) u'll get stupid +ve camber
to do it properly isn't that hard... the back is just a straight swap... for the front you just get the hubs machined to accept da9 bearings so you can use the da9 knuckles. new wheel bearings added a couple hundred dollars to the swap.
my engine mounts are shagged ... should I go the energy suspension inserts? any idea what a workshop should charge to change them?
to do it properly isn't that hard... the back is just a straight swap... for the front you just get the hubs machined to accept da9 bearings so you can use the da9 knuckles. new wheel bearings added a couple hundred dollars to the swap.
my engine mounts are shagged ... should I go the energy suspension inserts? any idea what a workshop should charge to change them?
ES inserts just go over the existing rubber and attach with things like cable ties. They won't work very well with already broken mounts as they are designed to restrict movement not hold the joint together. They are easy to install and no need for a shop.
Full replacement mounts would be a better option and if you are not worried about harshness or vibration then go for the urethane (innovative etc) ones, although I have heard varying stories on how harsh they actually are. Otherwise just go OEM.
Replacement is fairly easy with a socket set, couple of extensions and a couple of jacks and stands. Rear mount is a bitch, but I think there are a few how-tos on here which are the same for B-series motors
DA9 LS w/JDM SiR B18C turbo
Looking for older Honda project car pre-1985
I have a problem with the brakes on my 89 DA9. After replacing the pads on all 4 wheels and replacing the fluid (full bleed), I now have a spongy pedal once the engine is running (sinks to the floor). I have rebled 3 times without success and have now just replaced the M/cyl (new) with the same result. The old one had no sign of leaks and this advise to replace was given by a brake specialist. (I didn't buy the new one off him so he didn't gain anything by it). The strange thing about it is when driving around the back yard with and without the booster in circuit there is a definite difference with the booster in circuit. Got me stumped.
I should add that after bleeding and without the engine running the pedal feels absolutely perfect.
yeh i get the same thing, i know exactly wat u mean
ppl have said my booster is dying, i havnt got around to changing it tho.
i still brake perfectly fine, just pedal feels like crap
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Originally Posted by Spoon DA9R
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