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  1. #1
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    REVIEW: Don't bother installing voltage stabilizer?- with pics and comments

    EDIT - review starts at post 9 below
    ***
    As subject suggests - does anyone have photos of where they put the grounding wires when installing a voltage stabilizer for the Euro specifically (particularly the Pivot one?). I have seen Aaron's gheto wiring thread but I am looking particularly for the Pivot if possible.

    I just got the kit and noted the wires are not particularly long - may need to get some longer ones.

    I also took voltage measurements today of the vehicle under many different circumstances (eg headlights on and then turning on air con - engine idle). I recorded the movements in the volts and what it stabilized to. I did about 5 or 6 different tests. Will be interesting what the figures are with the stabiliser fitted (tomorrow).
    Last edited by yfin; 24-02-2007 at 01:43 PM.

  2. #2
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    Mmmm interesting.i've been wondering if one of these is worth getting.i'd be int.to see some figures.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by yfin View Post
    As subject suggests - does anyone have photos of where they put the grounding wires when installing a voltage stabilizer for the Euro specifically (particularly the Pivot one?). I have seen Aaron's gheto wiring thread but I am looking particularly for the Pivot if possible.

    I just got the kit and noted the wires are not particularly long - may need to get some longer ones.

    I also took voltage measurements today of the vehicle under many different circumstances (eg headlights on and then turning on air con - engine idle). I recorded the movements in the volts and what it stabilized to. I did about 5 or 6 different tests. Will be interesting what the figures are with the stabiliser fitted (tomorrow).
    The Pivot is a generic kit. So the cable lengths might be too long or too short for the Euro. What I suggest is to avoid creating ground loops, where you give a component 2 paths to go to ground. The engine block and transmission case grounds are pretty good. But you could benefit from grounding the sensor ground that is under the intake manifold cover.

    Here are pics from leaner's ground kit installation on his Euro (buddyclub)

    http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showpos...8&postcount=35
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  4. #4
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    Thanks Aaron - I am somewhat dissapointed with the wires Pivot supply (a 40, 50, 60, 80 and 100cm). I haven't checked yet but I am almost certain there is no way I can possibly reach the alternator with 100cm.

    Do you have pics of your engine block and tranny case ground points?
    And what is the sensor you are referring to? If you have detailed pics of your engine bay that would be great.
    Last edited by yfin; 23-02-2007 at 09:32 PM.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by yfin View Post
    Thanks Aaron - I am somewhat dissapointed with the wires Pivot supply (a 40, 50, 60, 80 and 100cm). I haven't checked yet but I am almost certain there is no way I can possibly reach the alternator with 100cm.

    Do you have pics of your engine block and tranny case ground points?
    And what is the sensor you are referring to? If you have detailed pics of your engine bay that would be great.
    Yeah, the Pivot's kit uses 6 gauge cable. That's thinner than the 4 gauge I used. What you can do is to use the Pivot's capacitor box, while using your own cable which you can buy from Jaycar.

    Sorry, don't have pics, but you can find them easily in your engine bay. The engine block ground is the braided wire on the driver's side engine mount. It's where an engine torque damper would be mounted. The transmission case ground is under your airbox. If you take off the airbox, you'll see it just underneath, the same braided wire. The sensor ground is the ground point for all the electricals, including ECU. It's an important ground that is connected to the intake manifold. Take off your intake manifold cover and you'll see a few thin cables bolted to the manifold.
    Last edited by aaronng; 23-02-2007 at 09:47 PM.
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by aaronng View Post
    Yeah, the Pivot's kit uses 6 gauge cable. That's thinner than the 4 gauge I used. What you can do is to use the Pivot's capacitor box, while using your own cable which you can buy from Jaycar.

    The engine block ground is the braided wire on the driver's side engine mount. It's where an engine torque damper would be mounted. The transmission case ground is under your airbox. If you take off the airbox, you'll see it just underneath, the same braided wire. The sensor ground is the ground point for all the electricals, including ECU. It's an important ground that is connected to the intake manifold. Take off your intake manifold cover and you'll see a few thin cables bolted to the manifold.
    Top stuff - those descriptions are enough for me to find those points. I think I have long enough cables to reach those points and perhaps I will make one of your ghetto cables to reach the alternator

  7. #7
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    I was supposed to help my friend do it but he started before I arrived, at the very same time and saw him meddling his wires in the engine bay, I saw fireworks coming out of the engine bay.....

    Don't forget to D/C the battery before you wire them up!
    Last edited by EuroAccord13; 24-02-2007 at 03:05 AM.
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by EuroAccord13 View Post
    I was supposed to help my friend do it but he started before I arrived, at the very same time and saw him meddling his wires in the engine bay, I saw fireworks coming out of the engine bay.....

    Don't forget to D/C the battery before you wire them up!
    haha - even the Pivot instructions as bad as they are make that clear!

  9. #9
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    Installed the Pivot Voltage Stabiliser today. Pics below. We ended up using all the wires provided by Pivot (connecting to body earth, near cylinder head, the ecu sensor under the intake manifold cover, the alternator and transmission case).

    Now my rudimentary understanding of the Pivot is that it stabilises voltage fluctuations. Is this supposed to happen when the car is running or only when starting? Does anyone know. Because read on. I took some readings of the voltage before and after installing the kit (using a feature of the Apexi RSM). In both cases the car was warm and at idle (around 650rpm with no accelerator applied). The readings were taken one day apart.

    BEFORE
    Base line no accessories on = 13.9 or 14.0
    AFTER
    Base line no accessories on = 13.9 or 14.0

    BEFORE
    High beam flash and hold high beam voltage reading = drop to 13.4 then stabilises at 13.9
    AFTER
    NO CHANGE

    BEFORE
    Air con turn on = drop to 13.1/13.2 then stabilises to 13.7/13.8
    AFTER
    NO CHANGE

    BEFORE
    Headlights on = drop to 13.7 then stabilises to
    13.9
    AFTER
    NO CHANGE

    BEFORE

    Headlights and fog lights on = drop to 13.7 then stabilises to 13.8
    AFTER
    NO CHANGE

    BEFORE

    Headlights and fog lights and high beam = drop to 13.7 then stabilises to 13.8
    AFTER
    NO CHANGE

    BEFORE
    Headlights, fogs, air con drop to 12.7/12.8 then stabilises to 12.5 or 12.6
    AFTER
    NO CHANGE

    Result: I see no "voltage stabilisation" when accessories are turned on or off. Just in case someone asks - yes I have the genuine Pivot model (as verified from the Pivot website as to the markings only seen on the genuine model). And as to whether or not I installed it correctly I had it installed by a motor mechanic (aka my dad!). Pivot blue light is on and working. Can someone explain why this product doesn't stabilise voltage or is this just a marketing ploy?








    Last edited by yfin; 24-02-2007 at 01:44 PM.

  10. #10
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    This started off in the Euro forum - but it has turned more into a review of this product generally so I have moved it. Interested in comments please.

  11. #11
    My guess is your factory grounding wires are good enough to do the job already.

    This kit is probably most effective (and difference noticeable) on older cars with either thinner ground cables and/or corroded, deteriorating cables.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by SiReal View Post
    My guess is your factory grounding wires are good enough to do the job already.

    This kit is probably most effective (and difference noticeable) on older cars with either thinner ground cables and/or corroded, deteriorating cables.
    I think that is right in relation to the grounding wires - but Pivot also claims voltage stabilisation through its capacitors. Shouldn't that work regardless of the vehicle age?

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