I've fit it with my coolers before, cut the grille out and trim the lip a tad to clear the intercooler. A bracket can be made to fit the oil cooler behind the left hand vent.Quote:
Originally Posted by mooshie
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I've fit it with my coolers before, cut the grille out and trim the lip a tad to clear the intercooler. A bracket can be made to fit the oil cooler behind the left hand vent.Quote:
Originally Posted by mooshie
Yeah, I know it can be done, its just the hassle of actually doing it! I have a spare front bar to practise and experiment with so will get around to it eventually
Yeah it probably look better as is with just a touch-up paint job after getting rid of tiny rust marks near rear window :) Need to push out my right front headlight area aswell thx to stupid person in corolla decided to quickly stop in front of me last year and since then bonnet sits about 1-2cm up from original position but still good.Quote:
Originally Posted by mooshie
After the amount i've spent on the car this year it couldn't hurt lol
http://stores.ebay.com.au/worldsuspensionQuote:
Originally Posted by mooshie
Here is the link to their ebay store.
Parts are good quality and have made a big improvement in steering feel.
this is the parts I bought:
4 Tie Rod ends ACURA INTEGRA 90-93 OUTER INNER RACK END
roughly $90 aus landed in brisbane.
Postage took about a week to arrive.
hope that helps!
Great thanks!
change of mind,
im loosing well over 10k if i sell
to do it properly isn't that hard... the back is just a straight swap... for the front you just get the hubs machined to accept da9 bearings so you can use the da9 knuckles. new wheel bearings added a couple hundred dollars to the swap.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spoon DA9R
my engine mounts are shagged ... should I go the energy suspension inserts? any idea what a workshop should charge to change them?
innovative engine mounts there greats,Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon_51
pretty cheap too
http://www.swapshopracing.com/ check em out
ES inserts just go over the existing rubber and attach with things like cable ties. They won't work very well with already broken mounts as they are designed to restrict movement not hold the joint together. They are easy to install and no need for a shop.
Full replacement mounts would be a better option and if you are not worried about harshness or vibration then go for the urethane (innovative etc) ones, although I have heard varying stories on how harsh they actually are. Otherwise just go OEM.
Replacement is fairly easy with a socket set, couple of extensions and a couple of jacks and stands. Rear mount is a bitch, but I think there are a few how-tos on here which are the same for B-series motors
lol ill vouche for the harshness of innovative mounts lol bit stiff, but im runnin 75a too soo yeh
after quick searchin,
i think ive answered it myself, but chuck wanna confirm
for the da9, i gotta drop my tank to change the fuel pump ey?
Correct, pain in the ass to do.
bleh lame....
whats the deal with cut & polishing, do da's have a clear coat?
I have a problem with the brakes on my 89 DA9. After replacing the pads on all 4 wheels and replacing the fluid (full bleed), I now have a spongy pedal once the engine is running (sinks to the floor). I have rebled 3 times without success and have now just replaced the M/cyl (new) with the same result. The old one had no sign of leaks and this advise to replace was given by a brake specialist. (I didn't buy the new one off him so he didn't gain anything by it). The strange thing about it is when driving around the back yard with and without the booster in circuit there is a definite difference with the booster in circuit. Got me stumped.
I should add that after bleeding and without the engine running the pedal feels absolutely perfect.
yeh i get the same thing, i know exactly wat u mean
ppl have said my booster is dying, i havnt got around to changing it tho.
i still brake perfectly fine, just pedal feels like crap
Gidday Stevo, yes, the booster was my first thought (The M/cyl has been everyone else's. Even the brake guy was doubtful). I was getting vibration from the brakes under moderately hard braking (why I checked the pads).
Everyone I've asked about the booster has said when they go you get a hard pedal (loose boost). I had this sort of thing happen a long time ago and the effect was that when you pressed the pedal it actually pushed back at you. At that time the diagnosis was the booster (and correct). Unfortunately I don't like my chances of pulling up in a hurry with the way they are especially as the pedal doesn't "pump up" as it would if it was just a bit of trapped air.
my whole system is brand new except the master and ive bled it alot
pretty sure boosters can die different ways
the obvious one is not working anymore not giving vacumm u get ur stiff pedal
i get same as u tho, with car off, the pedal feels perfect, i cant push in at all.
but once its on, (with extra then i wud normally brake with) i can push it all the way down
just had a quick google search u might find this interesting
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIQIB...el_video_title
I just had a look at that one stevo. I shall give it a go. Will try anything before attempting the struggle that it is to replace the booster (especially getting the pivot pin and split pin back in)
hey guys from a mechanical veiwpoint it really shouldnt be the booster... even if the internal valves fail it would not let the pedal travel much (if any) further. most probable causes would be master cylinder seals, old soft flexable hoses or as previously mentioned air in system.
Maybe take the vaccum hose off the booster and see what happens. Should be really hard. If not then you know its something wrong with the fluid side of things.
Gidday menacer and mooshie. Replaced the M/cyl yesterday (original had no leaks when I took it out)with a new one, and I have driven it with the booster working and with it blocked off with no change(brakes are working in both instances but very poorly). One of the members on CRXAus posted up some tests for the system from the W/shop manual which I will try today and I also saw on a UK forum (also referred) regarding the adjustment of the rear caliper piston (I may not have adjusted it up close enough to the pads when I installed them). Going to also check the hoses for expanding under booster pressure. So I'll let you know how I get on.
hmm. caliper piston adjustment is a possibility. however if its that then you should have no rear brakes untill approx 1/4 pedal travel... lines are still quite likely the problem.
HOORAY for Youtube, your find stevo seems to have done the trick. After going over everything, doing the tests and checking the rear calipers (which were as tight as they could be) I took it out to a quiet spot and did what "eric the car guy" said and it seems to have worked. Is locking up the front wheels and the pedal feels firmer with less travel. Reading elsewhere this should improve, so fingers crossed.
haha mad cool cool
Who's car that???^^^
hey guys puttin on my skunk2 manifold (ignore numbers in pic, i just reused da9-47's) n wondering about vacuum line for fuel pressure reg. on factory manifold it comes from back of manifold up to round black thing(servo of sum kind??) then to pressure reg.Quote:
Originally Posted by DA9-47
on new manifold it appears it comes from front of manifold near pressure reg.
do i have to run line via 'round black thing' or can i bypass it n go straight from manifold to pressure reg???
before tune i had it running through the solenoid, but it was affect stuff in the tune so i got rid of it. vacuum straight to fuel pressure reg
cool think i will bypass it... if theres issues i can always change it back.
Got a new problem since the brakes are now sorting themselves out.
Went to engage S4 (sportsshift) today but nothing happened, no dash indicator showing and no engagement. Dash indicator is coming on for a few seconds when ignition is turned on before starting so at least the bulb is OK. It's not a gearshift choice I use at all much but if anyone can shed any light on a cause would be appreciated.
Would it be p plate legal in Queensland for a p plate to have a b18c7 swaped da9?
Haha. Found my answer in the Prelude forums. I had forgotten to put the shifter itself into "S" and was just pressing the button. Said I didn't use it much.
Hey Guys, I'm selling my DA9 if anyone is interested (in Western Sydney), its pretty immaculate with REALLY low kilometres. If youre interested check it out on carsales:
http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/...ne=15&trecs=50
hey guys wat throttle bodys are you running/have u run on skunk2 pro series manifold. n wat's best in your oppinion?
im running 68mm skunk2 on skunk2 IMQuote:
Originally Posted by menacer
but then again im modded like crazy lol
if gonna run stock cams i wudnt go higher than 66mm
pretty priceyQuote:
Originally Posted by DA9 integra
will probably do cams eventually, not for a while tho.Quote:
Originally Posted by stevo716
would there be much of a downside to running 68mm without cams being changed?
eh im not sure wudnt think so
Yeah but can you show me one in better ORIGINAL condition? And with lower kilometres? Collectors item....Quote:
Originally Posted by ben11
i bought mine with 75k kms for 5 grand last year, all stock no problems. Your da looks really nice and all but i don't think there is that big a market for 20 year old hondas, unless you are a real enthusiast. Good luck with sale anyway!Quote:
Originally Posted by DA9 integra
Cool, thats what I want to know. Thanks, I'll lower the price a bit and see how it goes.Quote:
Originally Posted by ben11
Unfortunately our cars have lost a lot of value in the last few years although this is true for the majority of the used car market.
Just a couple of pics, before and after, of what I have been working on for the last couple of days-
http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/4421/sam0766u.jpg
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/716/sam0766u.jpg/http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/638/sam0830d.jpg/http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/3946/sam0830d.jpg
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/638/sam0830d.jpg/
re doing all the bushings plus new front bearings, ball joints, camber arms, tie rod ends to go with the traction bar I installed a few months ago. saving at the moment to get an ASR subframe brace as well and possibly a set of proper coilovers to replace the Koni/GC combo I currently have.
This stuff is all off the red car, but I dont think I'll have time in the next couple of weeks to get it all on to the turbo teg. at least all the arduous and time consuming stuff is done though..
oooo pretty
Hi guys ,
so i removed my older engine yesturday, had a bit of trouble getting g-box off it (had one rounded bolt) but its off , i need to buy a toruqe wrench 2moz so i can do up everything ive undone properly, and a clutch alignment tool? lol because the h/d clutch was only installed on the older engine less than 6 months befor car became inactive, and it still felt/feels awesome so i will check it of course but i would like to re-use it.
you could say i didnt relise how much work was involved in swapping a g-box from one motor to the next was for a first timer . im renting the engine hoist, and i only have it till monday 2pm, so im now not sure ill have the g-box on the newer engine in time to drop it in , so im thinking worst case ill have to drop newer engine in , add g-box later, only thing is i removed old motor and g-box out the top, so i would have to add g-box from the bottom ?
really wanted to have the g-box on new engine and sitting on the mounts by monday ,
ohh and the best bit is that im working night shift all weekend and monday! gotta find time to sleep in there somewhere(yeah right)
You can just get the engine mounted up and then sort out the gearbox later from underneath. bit harder than just wacking the whole thing in there at once though. cant you just keep the hoist hired for another couple of days?
a bit of a newbie here in australia but any of you guys know where to get an exhaust system for da9? vic specific .thanks.
not many aftermarket ones, like kits
just go to a exhaust joint
2 1/4" press bend is plenty for a da
I agree with stevo, i'd say 2 1/4" press, or 2" mandrel bent.
hi guys , excuse me for my ignorance but will dc2 king springs fit da?
springs alone shud
i do wish i knew!Quote:
Originally Posted by DA9-47
hey guys,
Please Help!!!
does anyone know what size the pressure plate mounting bolts for the tranny are?
im stuck............. i got nothing that fits............ its like bigger than a 10mm, and smaller than a 11mm, 7/16 fits best but still spins a little,
i got newer engine in and i separated the tranny from old engine , just cant get the fukn pressure plate ,clutch and fly off cause of those 9 bolts holding the pressure plate down :(
dont wanna buy a whole set of new sockets, would prefer to buy just the one if someone can tell me for sure what it is ?????
Please help
i went down the "add tranny later" roadQuote:
Originally Posted by mooshie
been strapped for cash so couldn't afford to get hoist for another day, and lucky cause i still wouldn't have had it out lol,
i think ill b right as long as i can get the pressure plate off , just more time consuming doing it this way, but safer in the long run for a first timer i reckn :)
there 10mm with a double hexQuote:
Originally Posted by DA9-47
life saver ...as usual lol,Quote:
Originally Posted by stevo716
going to try buy it now :)
thanks man
can anyone help me. my car normally turns on and revs to about 1500 rpm,then drops down very low to about 300, and then levels out at around 1000. Now I have noticed the car turns over a lot more before it starts, and sometimes when it starts it revs up to 1500 and then goes all the way down and stalls? something to do with ignition switch or relays?
any ideas would be great cheers
try the basic things first like checking for spark and pull the plugs and make sure they all look fine. take the cap off the distributor and see if the points and rotor look ok and that the connections on the igniter are tight. make sure your leads are in good nick and tightly fitting
when was the last time you changed your fuel filter? this can also impact but usually causes more problems at high revs/load than low.
try these and see if it works.
wat mooshies said... but if all is good it could be an issue with your cold start stuff. check vac lines etc. but after wat mooshie said. lol
i fixed it, but another problem was revealed.............petrol light is broken..........facepalm
thanks anyway
thought da9s didnt have petrol light?Quote:
Originally Posted by ben11
really? i just assumed all cars did and ran my car dry trying to find out if it worked or not lolQuote:
Originally Posted by stevo716
nah my old da9 didntQuote:
Originally Posted by ben11
i got a da6 now that does tho
its a pointless thing anyway lol, needle does same job :P
yea no fuel light.
Would 94 GSI lowered springs fit on DA9 shocks??
They will fit on the shocks but the rear end will sit really low as the DAs have longer rear shocks and springs
Ok ,
so just tried to lift tranny up from bottom , didn't work, can anyone explain how the tranny should be facing as it goes up so that it doesn't become stuck on the pressure plate and the side tranny mount ? dunno if it usually just goes nearly straight up , or needs to be twisted a certain way to clear everything on the way up?
i have everything out of the way according to the helms manual , and i only have the side tranny mount on the tranny,
any help appreciated guys =)
I would say you need to take the tranny mount off the g/box to get sufficient clearance. Might help a little to tilt the engine down at the flywheel.
yeh u need the mount off
bolt the gearbox loosen the other mounts then the mount in prob need to remove the plate under mount too
its a bit of pain
thats the part that annoyed me looks like bolted the mount to the steel then welded it haha
Quote:
Originally Posted by hondapop
thanks guys,Quote:
Originally Posted by stevo716
I'll give that a go tomorrow,
my arms are so sore right now lol, only got a shitty jack and a pile of wood lol
but yeah Stevo that side tranny mount looks like a bitch, ill just undo the whole thing from the silly plate thing that's welded bolt to steel .
off to enjoy my fiances awesome fried rice (late dinner much ? lol)
cheers guys
MEEEEEE
hi Guys,
So i have made my first real big fcuk up,:(
i got bolts mixed up a while ago and put a bolt in the side tranny mount that was too long, after taking Stevo's advice on removing the whole side tranny mount for extra clearance installing the gearbox from the bottom, i noticed a nice big whole that shouldn't be there where i have pushed the bolt through thinking it was just a shit bolt( how retarded )
lucky car hasn't been driven at all
so my guess is my bell-housing is rooted, and my question is if i open the gearbox up and clean out any metal fragments from the hole that might be in there and install a new bell housing , should i be right then?
would this be a hard thing to do ?
cheers guys
What transmission do you have? S1 or Y1?
It would be easier to replace if its a S1 since they're quite cheap anyways.
hey mate,Quote:
Originally Posted by ACTI0NMAN-1
its the cable YS1 if i am correct
=)
if its a hole just in ur bell housing i dont see the problem....Quote:
Originally Posted by DA9-47
no fluid goes in there, just clean around the thrust bearing and input shaft
take a pic
hey mate its in the transmission housing as shown in these picsQuote:
Originally Posted by stevo716
sorry if i confused yall
http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_0184-1.jpg
http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_6429.jpg
Also just wondering with my new Skunk2 Intake manifold, my old Fuel Pressure regulator only just fits , is there any FPR's that you guys know of that works well with our car that uses that adapter so that the FPR itself can be mounted on the firewall? anywhere local (melbourne)??
other than that i just want a new fuel rail, the standard spacers that sit above the injectors are to big with the new I/M so im gunna try make my own.
i flipped my fpr upsidedown fit better
guys do you know if the simota whale penis intakes that are for eg/ek civics and stuff will they fit a da with a b16?
intakes are usually designed for the chassis so maybe not