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Thread: Turbo Y4

  1. #37
    > With such a small turbo, i should be in boost almost all the time im driving. it should hold good til redline aswell.


    Not gonna happen.
    A T25 will have about 2-3000 rpm power band
    A T28 will be better till redline but spool a bit later.

    Listen to what Luke's been saying.

    > Im still pretty firm on the T25G, im sure the GT28R would be a huge improvement

    All of us fooling with d16's are doing it due to budget reasons.
    The GT28 is a new unit and thus $$$$.
    Any second hand T28 will be nice.
    Small frame T3's (45 or 50trim is perfect), or Nissan R32/33 GTR turbos will be at the very top end of your goals.
    SAAB T3's are supposed to be cheap and might be worth looking in to.

    The smaller turbos off WRX's would probably be nice, but I've only researched the Garret series.

    > Do you suggest getting a cat from a V8 commo, or would a V6 cat work just as good? What ever fits the pipe you going use.
    Late model vehicles tend to have higher spec cat converters. As long as it's sized appropriately it'll do the job.

    > Id much rather use mandrel bends for the exhaust,
    That's a lot more money.

    A good down pipe to your current exhaust system should be plenty.


    > so i would get full boost about just under 3000RPM

    I think this is optimistic.

    Perhaps one of the variable vane Garret turbos (GT2056v) is more appropriate for your goals?
    Mercedes sprinter diesel vans and nissan 4x4's come to mind.


    Nick.

    PS. I think the T25 is perfect for your original goals, just your expectations are a bit optimistic.
    A T28 will probably start to max out the integrity of the motor and need more cash spent on the exhaust, etc.
    Last edited by nd55; 20-05-2009 at 11:02 AM.

  2. #38
    Member Array
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    Jan 2009
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    Car:
    Civic 97
    If he hunts around you can pick up a T28 off an S14 for around the 300-400 mark in good nick and even cheaper a GTR turbo off an R33 these are a T28 just the comp housing is a little smaller and only rated at about 300hp and they use the T2 type flange

    if you want to go T3 just look at a R33 stock turbo these are T28 with a T3 flange on them and you can pick these are everywhere!

    as a basic idea i was quoted 200-250 for mandrel bent cat back exhaust for my EK with extra flanges put in, the dump is going to cost around the $250 mark and if you that strap for cash just use the stock cat and punch it out.

    either way the basic principle of a turbocharger exists on the fact that it has to build up boost just wait for the 3000 rpm to come to get your power :P
    WOULD YOU LIKE SOME FRONT BAR WITH YOUR FRONT MOUNT

  3. #39
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Sydney - Cabramatta/Liver
    Car:
    Jazz EVO IX
    if your on a budget, a secondhand T28 would be ok. Should be perfect.
    Just with log manifolds, just make sure they are a/c & p/s compatible, some aren't
    Evo IX - THE FINAL EVOLUTION

  4. #40
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    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Queensland
    Car:
    EK1 Civic
    Quote Originally Posted by nd55 View Post
    > With such a small turbo, i should be in boost almost all the time im driving. it should hold good til redline aswell.


    Not gonna happen.
    A T25 will have about 2-3000 rpm power band
    A T28 will be better till redline but spool a bit later.

    Listen to what Luke's been saying.

    > Im still pretty firm on the T25G, im sure the GT28R would be a huge improvement

    All of us fooling with d16's are doing it due to budget reasons.
    The GT28 is a new unit and thus $$$$.
    Any second hand T28 will be nice.
    Small frame T3's (45 or 50trim is perfect), or Nissan R32/33 GTR turbos will be at the very top end of your goals.
    SAAB T3's are supposed to be cheap and might be worth looking in to.

    The smaller turbos off WRX's would probably be nice, but I've only researched the Garret series.

    > Do you suggest getting a cat from a V8 commo, or would a V6 cat work just as good? What ever fits the pipe you going use.
    Late model vehicles tend to have higher spec cat converters. As long as it's sized appropriately it'll do the job.

    > Id much rather use mandrel bends for the exhaust,
    That's a lot more money.

    A good down pipe to your current exhaust system should be plenty.


    > so i would get full boost about just under 3000RPM

    I think this is optimistic.

    Perhaps one of the variable vane Garret turbos (GT2056v) is more appropriate for your goals?
    Mercedes sprinter diesel vans and nissan 4x4's come to mind.


    Nick.

    PS. I think the T25 is perfect for your original goals, just your expectations are a bit optimistic.
    A T28 will probably start to max out the integrity of the motor and need more cash spent on the exhaust, etc.
    Honestly nick, i dont really know what to expect out of the T25, ive got my eye on a rebuilt one for a great price. i was looking at the TD04L from a WRX, but the flange is completely different, so a custom manifold is required, but since im thinking of using a custom manifold anyway...

    exhaust diameters also effect spool time. a 2.5" will spool quicker compared to a 2.25".

    Remember, i chose the T25G for its smaller, quicker spool characteristics. keep in mind im using this with an AFC, so i have to retard timing which will kill me out of boost, hence the reason for a smaller turbo. its my daily driver, again if im not happy with the T25G, i can always go to a T28. I do understand you guys are just giving me your opinions, which i appreciate, but i have to work with limits in mind.

    Quote Originally Posted by lookingforboost View Post
    If he hunts around you can pick up a T28 off an S14 for around the 300-400 mark in good nick and even cheaper a GTR turbo off an R33 these are a T28 just the comp housing is a little smaller and only rated at about 300hp and they use the T2 type flange

    if you want to go T3 just look at a R33 stock turbo these are T28 with a T3 flange on them and you can pick these are everywhere!

    as a basic idea i was quoted 200-250 for mandrel bent cat back exhaust for my EK with extra flanges put in, the dump is going to cost around the $250 mark and if you that strap for cash just use the stock cat and punch it out.

    either way the basic principle of a turbocharger exists on the fact that it has to build up boost just wait for the 3000 rpm to come to get your power :P
    if you dont mind me asking, how much did you pay for your steam pipe manifold? my cat has got some honeycomb missing cause a few years ago there was a rattle in the muffler, took the silencer off, & out came this stick of honeycomb from the cat!

    Quote Originally Posted by Limbo View Post
    if your on a budget, a secondhand T28 would be ok. Should be perfect.
    Just with log manifolds, just make sure they are a/c & p/s compatible, some aren't
    Yes, i do understand in order for log mani's to be ac ps compatible, its all about the turbo flange placement...

  5. #41
    Member Array
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    Oct 2004
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    Sydney - Cabramatta/Liver
    Car:
    Jazz EVO IX
    steampipe manifold is about $800-1000. I got a full Ram with ceramic coating.
    Will post it up when i redo my build thread.
    Evo IX - THE FINAL EVOLUTION

  6. #42
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    Dec 2003
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    damn, how much would o expect to pay for a mild steel log manifold?

  7. #43
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    Nov 2004
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    Manly Yo
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    ED/EG5/EP3/JAZZ
    Quote Originally Posted by VTECnique View Post
    damn, how much would o expect to pay for a mild steel log manifold?
    I think you'll find out its going to cost far more than you think

    Not just the manifold but everything lol
    161.4KW ATW Tuned By TODA
    EG5 JDM B16A SiR-II TURBO

    13.28@106.6mph 2.117 60ft On RE001

  8. #44
    Banned Array
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    May 2008
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    Vaucluse NSW
    Car:
    EKB20 > EGB18C
    and i highly doubt u can make a decent reliable turbo basic setup for 2-3k mate... u can with shit parts that will fall apart.

  9. #45
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    Mar 2007
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    www.letusdrive.com.au
    Car:
    D15B7 YOOOOOO!
    well as he said manifold and turbo going to be second hand, if he was gona gonew turbo why would he even bother?
    Check out my build thread EGB16T. http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...build../page14
    Check out my for sale thread constantly updated with b series/ eg parts!

    Wakefield Honda Nationals First Timer : na-118 EG b16 1:16.4900

  10. #46
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Manly Yo
    Car:
    ED/EG5/EP3/JAZZ
    Read my old thread
    http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=79182

    GReddy Kit
    $2080

    FMIC
    $150

    FMIC Pipping
    $190

    Install
    $600

    Total
    $3020

    Plus this kit is very well built and I doubt I'll have to replace anything for years...

    I just pushed to hard hahah
    161.4KW ATW Tuned By TODA
    EG5 JDM B16A SiR-II TURBO

    13.28@106.6mph 2.117 60ft On RE001

  11. #47
    Banned Array
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    May 2008
    Location
    Vaucluse NSW
    Car:
    EKB20 > EGB18C
    if any1 is going or getting cams.. i would highly suggest bisi cams... apartently they work wonders and in the states all uses them

  12. #48
    Member Array
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    Mar 2007
    Location
    www.letusdrive.com.au
    Car:
    D15B7 YOOOOOO!
    how much we looking for the cams?
    Check out my build thread EGB16T. http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...build../page14
    Check out my for sale thread constantly updated with b series/ eg parts!

    Wakefield Honda Nationals First Timer : na-118 EG b16 1:16.4900

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