Lets Talk d-series

[Riced_Civic]

i used to bring my turbo D, but its now been retired to daily duties.

[1996_EK_Civic]

nah its better you asked

check out gripforce member on ebay - he sells a great range of clutch and flywheel packages
the common two are the 10lbs exedy flywheel and the 7lbs fidanza one
i wouldnt go any lighter than 10lbs for daily driving - i have it on my D15b7 and it does suck a little in carparks or 1st gear driving
after 1st gear its amazing tho - one of the best mods i have done to the car so far
7lbs would be great for track - but would be bloody terrible for daily driving

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EXEDY-RACING-STAGE-1-CLUTCH-KIT-FLYWHEEL-D15-D16-D17-/150548401985?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item230d624f41

thanks for that man, does 'gripforce' ship to Aus?
is there any brands go for or to watch out for?

[markismaximus]

anyone who bring their D series Civic on track here?

yep

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd121/mx83cressida/Lakeside/Civic5.jpg

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd121/mx83cressida/Lakeside/Civic3.jpg

[TheSaint]

thanks for that man, does 'gripforce' ship to Aus?
is there any brands go for or to watch out for?

yes they do - thats where i got my setup
get Exedy they are damn good value for money

[NelsonLSY]

nice, just curious what mods have you got there :)
I have just brough my EG VTi on track with just tyres and susp. mods

[markismaximus]

nice, just curious what mods have you got there :)
I have just brough my EG VTi on track with just tyres and susp. mods

AUDM ED Civic converted to EFI
D16Y1 swap
Running OEM CRX instake with K&N panel filter
Exedy HD clutch
2" 5zigen mandrel bent cat-back
15mm DA rear swaybar with EG VTi LCAs
Skunk2 Pro-C coilovers
EG VTi disc brakes front and rear (EBC green stuff on the front, OEM on the rear)
All control arm and suspension bushes replaced with Energy suspension polyurethane
Running 205/50/15 toyo R888s when out

[NelsonLSY]

Just realise there's oil leaking between the head and the block, but only at the left handside....
would that be just the problem of the seal? (can't see any oil in the coolant, plz not the head gasket :( )

[~Sp33~]

I bet your distributor O ring is leaking and collecting there.

[NelsonLSY]

I bet your distributor O ring is leaking and collecting there.

but im pretty sure that's engine oil cuz the oil level has dropped pretty much
and not burning oil (I have just swapped the engine not long ago and brought it back from track)

[~Sp33~]

Engine oil leaks out of the o ring. The distributor doesn't have it's own oil source lol.

[ouch]

anyone know where i can get a replacement o ring? distributer o ring...

[trism]

Straight from honda, should be a few dollars.

[ouch]

how much you reckon it would cost?

[trism]

like i said, should be a few dollars.

[~Sp33~]

Have you inspected it first to see if that's actually the source?

[bob carrr]

how would you get the most out of a d16y1?

[jdmEG5]

how would you get the most out of a d16y1?

yeah was about to ask same question ;

[mugen_ctr]

how would you get the most out of a d16y1?


yeah was about to ask same question ;

how deeps are ur pockets

If just the usual I/H/E, it does make an improvement, but dont expect a WOW factor

If ur going boost, than its a different story, good for 120kw easy

If ur going the full beans, forged engine, piston rods, etc etc with big turbo, lsd and dry sump, than its pretty much a solid engine lol

[~Sp33~]

http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/7604/1232037466127.jpg

[jdmEG5]

LOLOLOL sp33 hahaha

hmm well pocket isnt deep at all lol, just curious on any other mods other than i/h/e ?

[trism]

if you wanted to keep it N/A

youd go A full custom intake and manifold, full exhaust, headers all the way back, with high flow cat, a single muffler, 2.5" pipe all the way through

Thats about the extent of bolt ons.

Then you get into things like cams, valve springs, over sized valves, port/polish the heads, port match the heads to the intake and exhaust manifolds.

Then an aftermarket ecu, get it tuned, lift the rev limit.

Then the bottom end, rods and pistons.

[Sexc86]

Hahaha that is gold!



http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/7604/1232037466127.jpg

[jdmEG5]

if you wanted to keep it N/A

youd go A full custom intake and manifold, full exhaust, headers all the way back, with high flow cat, a single muffler, 2.5" pipe all the way through

Thats about the extent of bolt ons.

Then you get into things like cams, valve springs, over sized valves, port/polish the heads, port match the heads to the intake and exhaust manifolds.

Then an aftermarket ecu, get it tuned, lift the rev limit.

Then the bottom end, rods and pistons.

thanks trism for the answer man! :D

[mugen_ctr]

if you wanted to keep it N/A

youd go A full custom intake and manifold, full exhaust, headers all the way back, with high flow cat, a single muffler, 2.5" pipe all the way through

Thats about the extent of bolt ons.

Then you get into things like cams, valve springs, over sized valves, port/polish the heads, port match the heads to the intake and exhaust manifolds.

Then an aftermarket ecu, get it tuned, lift the rev limit.

Then the bottom end, rods and pistons.

Headers, if u got really deep pockets, go for Bisi V2 headers, work of art, and proven to gain 15hp according to website

and than we move onto true Na territory, of adding ITB, again even more money + to tune the itb might get costly

Just letting ppl know, Mugen did experiment on the early d-series, and did race em in the SSCA categories, so proof d-series has had some race pedigree lol

http://www.modified.com/features/0705_sccp_mugen_honda_crx_dx/photo_03.html

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/xun86/Mugen_d16a6.jpg

[trism]

IMO, ITBs are only really useful if you plan on tracking the car.

For a daily, youll lose too much low down torque with them.

[~Sp33~]

IMO, ITBs are only really useful if you plan on tracking the car.

For a daily, youll lose too much low down torque with them.

And reliability. Unless you wanna keep the engine above 6k.

[TheSaint]

ITB are amazing - i was going to build a custom set for my D15b7 using a fireblade intake setup

BUT - after reading up on it - the amount of tuning that is needed to get it running right is a nightmare - especially for street use lol

[bob carrr]

Interesting, but sounds like i'd need a deep pocket.. super deep.

[~Sp33~]

Expecting otherwise?

[pihlor]

noob question
i just got given a d16y1 cos my mate did a engine conversion and i was thinking of putting it in my eg8 with a d15b7 inregards to the swap will it just be a straight swap or do i need to change the loom ?

[TheSaint]

straight swap - u juss gota run a wire for vtec to ur ECU
and you will need a P28 ECU to run the engine

if u wanna get rid of any parts let me know =)

[mugen_ctr]

Are all the d16 oil pans/sump pan interchangeable? reason im asking, my mate has his d16y1 pan lying around, and next year i wanna boost it, so there fore i can just uses his one an get it welded up with a oil drain fitting.

So d16y1 oil pan onto d16y8?

[bob carrr]

Does anyone know somemonster d16's that can trash b16'? i remember JDM-399

[beeza]

There's heaps of d's that can smoke b's.They are all is the US and a few in Europe.

Here's a 'Monster' d!

http://www.youtube.com/user/Bisimoto?blend=3&ob=5#p/u/3/FIhA7_c_Yx0

[trism]

What the most monster d in aus? I reckon the turbo one Steve is building for his sedan will be the best zc, but im keen for a crazy sohc vtec.

Id be happy with 200fwkw out of a sohc vtec turbo.

[beeza]

One of the POV guys had a big turbo build,that crazy lil' hatchie!

280-300kws was it?

This guy is up the top of QLD

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ky7UxepxTXg

[GSi_PSi]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pVgxtqnv03o&feature=related

[bennjamin]

200kw d series turbo ? thats more than double the most powerful D series - like saying a B series with 300kw or a K series with 315kw. Have to be a hole lot of $$$$$$$$$$$$ !
Another thought is - a B or K series with 200kw will munch a D series with 200kw.

[trism]

Explaain why so??

[beeza]

lol benny.

d's be smokin' b's daily in the US!!!!!!

They know how to work the d.

[NelsonLSY]

Hey guys
how often you hv to top up ur engine oil of SOHC VTEC engine?

I believe there's a little bit leaking from the VTEC solenoid.....and just top it up after 3000 ks....

[beeza]

Mine hardly ever needs toping up,then randomly but really not often I need to top it up just a little.

U probably need to change the VTec solenoid gasket,I believe it happens a bit,pretty common,nothing to worry about.

[markismaximus]

Hey guys
how often you hv to top up ur engine oil of SOHC VTEC engine?

I believe there's a little bit leaking from the VTEC solenoid.....and just top it up after 3000 ks....

you can get a replacement OEM part from honda for $20-30. Is a bit of a mess to change because all the oil runs out when you remove it. Gotta shove rags down the back to stop oil running over everything. But if you're losing that much from the solenoid there is probably already oil over everything

[1996_EK_Civic]

i've owned my car for about 20 months, never had to top up the oil, serviced every 5000kms though

[beeza]

U could just drain the oil and put it back in then..

[dougie_504]

200kw d series turbo ? thats more than double the most powerful D series - like saying a B series with 300kw or a K series with 315kw. Have to be a hole lot of $$$$$$$$$$$$ !
Another thought is - a B or K series with 200kw will munch a D series with 200kw.


Jonny made 245KW in his D16A8 on about 30PSI. Ran an 11.6 ET. Cost him a whole bucket of $$$ but this was a good 8-10 years ago and it was pretty badass at the time. Has been swapped for a B-series now. More potential, better power curve etc.

[NelsonLSY]

you can get a replacement OEM part from honda for $20-30. Is a bit of a mess to change because all the oil runs out when you remove it. Gotta shove rags down the back to stop oil running over everything. But if you're losing that much from the solenoid there is probably already oil over everything

There's smoke coming from the exhaust when VTEC kicks in and the way it smokes is like oil leaking rather then burning.....sometimes I could see oil stain on the left handside from the engine head down the block....at first I thought it could be from the distributor but then I try to touch everywhere of the engine and the VTEC solenoid is the only thing I could feel a little bit wet there

[Jaime]

Hi guys,

just wanted to ask, if anyone has purchased the msd ignition kits for the d series off ebay? what are the sort of gains from a mod to the ignition?
I'm already using iridium spark plugs and ngk leads...would there be a difference?

Thanks;
Jaime

[mugen_ctr]

There's smoke coming from the exhaust when VTEC kicks in and the way it smokes is like oil leaking rather then burning.....sometimes I could see oil stain on the left handside from the engine head down the block....at first I thought it could be from the distributor but then I try to touch everywhere of the engine and the VTEC solenoid is the only thing I could feel a little bit wet there

if its coming from the exhaust than its a internal problem though i could be wrong, since im no mechanic lol, usually it also depends on the color of smoke, white indicating a gasket problem, bluish smoke the pistons rings are on there way out or seals are gone, and black smoke obviously ecu running rich a/f mixture

could also be a worn seal making it leak somewhere, are u loosing oil? and how much are u loosing?

[Renaissance_x]

How much does it usually cost to install a 1.5 way lsd into a d series gearbox?

[Frankie]

How much does it usually cost to install a 1.5 way lsd into a d series gearbox?

to much money waste of time

[Renaissance_x]

But if you can't go b series you have to do what you have to do.

[beeza]

The d is a labour of love.

Need to do all the work ya self..

Best way is to get another engine,pull it apart and build it up,then swap it in I reckon.

That way,U can go at your pace (when U got money),still have a daily and a project to keep ya busy.

And we all know U can buy these engine for $200-$600.

[pat88c]

It labour of love and for me have soft spot for the under dog

Putting a lsd in d series is al up to how mucj you want to spend and wait

Example my ed9 crx d16a8 dohc (which is same as ef7 zc) I got few options

1) buy new cusco or maybe Mfactory lsd centre(around $1250) and throw in my box (from free up $1000 with rebuild box at the same time)
2) Wait around look on ebay to japan yahoo actions may find zc lsd centre used for $500-700 from i have seen
Plus same cost of fitting it
3) Not worry about it save money put for b or k swap

The only reason I am doing it to mine please read my first line again lol

[beeza]

I just said that one honda-tech yesterday in the SOHC wire tuck thread.

Tupac said it:

"We all want to be the underdog!"

[~Sp33~]

http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/4695/unled1hri.jpg

You slammed your sedan?

[Renaissance_x]

Is there any diy guides on how to put a lsd in a fwd? Maybe it's best to not even attempt it.

[markismaximus]

doubt it would be very different to fitting an LSD to a b-series box.

[beeza]

haha Steve,there's some pics in the batmobile thread,tell me what U think!

It's as low as I can go,the H brace is smashed up and most people comment on how low it is hahaha

I cant go lower and I come real close to hitting a lot but dont hit! Just touch sometimes and bash! sometimes lol

It dosent have that camber look at all but it's low and just on the side of practical for the roads I drive.

Oh yes,my ass cheeks have been clenched many times hahahaha

[tiksie]

Jaime,

There would be a difference, but for the amount of money you will be paying, you would be better off doing other bolt on mods.

[pat88c]

Yeh bolt on parts will help think and feel a bit faster but lsd centre will help you be bit more faster again than spining one/single leg it conpair to grip and spining two wheels


Sorry if I going feel bogon but everyone wants to see two smokey tyres in burnout than single spinner
(In safe enerment of coure eg. drag strip :p)

[prada21]

Hey guys. Some of you may have seen my posts on the ITB's well they are for sale.
I have a d16y4 which I'm aiming to convert from the backyard bullshit job to stock efi..
Does anyone here have any experience in rewiring the car and maybe some detail in hooking up the injectors and accualy maybe pics?
I've been looking around for build threads for advice to what to do next but can't seem to find any.. you guys seem the best bunch to ask ;)

[prada21]

http://tapatalk.com/mu/789264e6-3f54-5608.jpghttp://tapatalk.com/mu/789264e6-3f6c-7c7f.jpg

[~Sp33~]

Yeh bolt on parts will help think and feel a bit faster but lsd centre will help you be bit more faster again than spining one/single leg it conpair to grip and spining two wheels


Sorry if I going feel bogon but everyone wants to see two smokey tyres in burnout than single spinner
(In safe enerment of coure eg. drag strip :p)

D series spins wheels? Better tyres would be cheaper than an LSD and you would get so many more benefits out of them.

[v__]

holy shit.

diy intake manifold?

[prada21]

I brought it like that.. believe me.. I wouldn't do this ****ed up job lol

[mugen_ctr]

I brought it like that.. believe me.. I wouldn't do this ****ed up job lol

SO is it a carby setup on a y4? LOL, its interesting to say the least and rubber tube used as intake runners!

[prada21]

Yea. Its 4xmotobike ITB's
Run its own seperate fuel line. Its pretty shitty..
I've felt the rubber hoses were wrong.. do you know what they should be champ? I've never seen this before... =|

[trism]

It'd be a pretty awesome set up on a y1, and if you could get it tuned properly. Will you sell it all as a complete unit when you get a new manifold? I'd be interested.

[prada21]

Yea I will. I have brought all the parts to put my engine to stock efi. So once that's done ill sell it. I just can't do the stock shit myself.. =[ or id be doing it now =[ =[

[~Sp33~]

That looks neat. Preferably the runners would be an alloy, but i doubt there would be any issues with the rubber hose collapsing because of negative pressure, it looks like thread reinforced coolant piping.

What problems were you having with it? Idle issues?

[Renaissance_x]

The runners would look alot neater if they were braided steel imo.

[~Sp33~]

The runners would look alot neater if they were braided steel imo.

The runners would look alot neater if they were solid gold imo.

[prada21]

yea idle issues. its a bad backyard job that just is bodgy.
im over trying to fix it so i wanna go back to stock EFI and sell this ITB setup...

[prada21]

That looks neat. Preferably the runners would be an alloy, but i doubt there would be any issues with the rubber hose collapsing because of negative pressure, it looks like thread reinforced coolant piping.

What problems were you having with it? Idle issues?

It did have suffercating issues..I changed hoses..

[prada21]

I can't do the job myself as I have next to no knowledge on it. I just wanna go back to stock .. then I know there's going to be no issues..
I've had this car for about 5 weeks and I've probably driven it for a max of 5 hours. Its killing me and I'm just over issues.. I fix one problem and I find another then another.. its so frustrating...

[~Sp33~]

I didnt think it looked long enough to be able to collapse. What'd you swap them to?

[prada21]

They were longer when I got the car. I used tough radiator house. And shorter =] seemed to fix it a fair bit.

[prada21]

I wasn't sure on what pipes to use. And they were just rubber ones on before...

[~Sp33~]

They were longer when I got the car. I used tough radiator house. And shorter =] seemed to fix it a fair bit.

Didn't think it looked possible for them to collapse with them being that short. A metal pipe with rubber couplers would've probably have been a better idea. Like what is used on intercooler piping.

[prada21]

It can be changed no issues =]
If it helps I can do that instead =]

[prada21]

Yep Yep!! guess what guys? the ITBS are coming out tomorow night ^_^
Im getting it changed to stock so if anyone is really intrested in the ITB setup PM me :)

[Jaime]

Jaime,

There would be a difference, but for the amount of money you will be paying, you would be better off doing other bolt on mods.

This is the one I was looking at buying;

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/92-95-HONDA-CIVIC-EXTERNAL-COIL-DISTRIBUTOR-CAP-CONVERSION-KIT-MSD-BLASTER-SS-/360392202554?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53e90c993a#ht_6680wt_956

Thanks for ur reply.

[prada21]

a few days left of the build :)
Its coming along really well.. all the interier wiring has all been done and put back together, now just need to do the fuel tank. wiring lume in engine bay and then the intake and injectors.. im aiming to be done by sunday night :)

im a little suprised ive had next to no PM`s about the ITBS. its all good. i dont mind if know one is intrested.. i guess im not either haha.

Peace guys. and thanks again for all your advice and help! D16Y4 back to EFI here i come ^_^

[markismaximus]

a few days left of the build :)
Its coming along really well.. all the interier wiring has all been done and put back together, now just need to do the fuel tank. wiring lume in engine bay and then the intake and injectors.. im aiming to be done by sunday night :)

im a little suprised ive had next to no PM`s about the ITBS. its all good. i dont mind if know one is intrested.. i guess im not either haha.

Peace guys. and thanks again for all your advice and help! D16Y4 back to EFI here i come ^_^

well technically you aren't allowed to sell anything on here anyway as you are still a newcomer.

you've also bagged the shit out of the ITBs, so who in their right mind would want them...

[mugen_ctr]

If it was an EFI ITB setup, lets say from a Honda CBR600, than yes, easily :D

[prada21]

Lol I bagged the shit out of them cause I didn't want them... and cause the way it was installed was dodgy.. I'm sure someone who can install them right would do them well. But it doesn't matter as I'm efi and don't need them anyways..

[GSi_PSi]

inb4 your engine turns out to be carby lol

[viinnh]

im a little suprised ive had next to no PM`s about the ITBS. its all good. i dont mind if know one is intrested.. i guess im not either haha.


the reason no one wants it because you told me you wanted 800$ for it .. and you complain how shit it is.

[prada21]

Its all good. =]

[prada21]

I was told that's how much they would sell for that's why. But now that they are off and checked out properly. They arnt the ones I was told they were. The guy I got the car off was full of it.. just like the way he put it in. I'm sure with some knowledge they would work well. Seriously my car is nearly on the road. Id be happy to loose them for a bit of cash. But I'm not worried as I have had 1st hand experience that they need someone who knows abit about them which I dont. That's all.

[prada21]

Hey guys :)

EFI conversion is done. and i only have 1 night left of work just re wiring the tail lights and putting the headlights on :)
The car is running sweet, very good idle all in all im very happy with it seeings as tho i was ready to torch it a few weeks back hahhaha

I cant wait till its done, blue slipped and on the road :)

Thanks for all the help guys!

[NelsonLSY]

what weight of the lightened flywheel will make the best for street use?

[mugen_ctr]

Hey guys :)

EFI conversion is done. and i only have 1 night left of work just re wiring the tail lights and putting the headlights on :)
The car is running sweet, very good idle all in all im very happy with it seeings as tho i was ready to torch it a few weeks back hahhaha

I cant wait till its done, blue slipped and on the road :)

Thanks for all the help guys!

Good to know man :)


what weight of the lightened flywheel will make the best for street use?

You should pm TheSaint‎, as his running one in his eh civic :)

[viinnh]

waht i better for a d16y4 ?
just a pod on stock arm
short ram
long ram(injen style)
or whale penis ?

[TbM]

waht i better for a d16y4 ?
just a pod on stock arm
short ram
long ram(injen style)
or whale penis ?
I got a fujita CAI for mine and it seems to do well, feels like it pulls harder at the top end. Short rams and whale penis will give you more response compared to cai so it depends what your preference is. If you do go short ram or whale then make sure to enclose the pod and/or give it a cold air feed or you will just be sucking in hot engine bay air.

[mugen_ctr]

waht i better for a d16y4 ?
just a pod on stock arm
short ram
long ram(injen style)
or whale penis ?

Whats best is infact remove the airbox resonator and feed it the box fresh air, make a diy cai for the airbox, thats the best thing for any d-series, dont bother wasting alot of money it unless u plan on keeping it for long time like some ppl do :)

[TheSaint]

I got a fujita CAI for mine and it seems to do well, feels like it pulls harder at the top end. Short rams and whale penis will give you more response compared to cai so it depends what your preference is. If you do go short ram or whale then make sure to enclose the pod and/or give it a cold air feed or you will just be sucking in hot engine bay air.

actually its the opposite on all hondas i have worked on (MANY)
CAI systems are quieter and provide better throttle response, fuel economy and low end power
SRI (like whale intakes) will be alot louder and give a nice gain in top end but ur fuel economy wont be as good and ur bottom end will suffer

putting 4-2-1 ebay headers onto a D-series will heavily combat the losses from the SRI - which makes it a good combo
but in B-series CAI is the way to go

i had a Fujita CAI on my B18c and it was amazing for mid and top end and was loud as hell
i put the same kit on my D15b and it lost alot of mid-top end and is hell quiet
most of my mates have had the same experiences
the best value for money intake kit you can get for D-series is the simota whale intake on ebay for $100
than use your factory intake arm as an air ram from your front bumper

[TheSaint]

Good to know man :)

You should pm TheSaint‎, as his running one in his eh civic :)

my car is an EG8 with D15b7 and JDM D15b gearbox
- check out the build thread for more info
im using Exedy O.E. Clutch and Exedy 10lbs Flywheel kit from ebay america
i wouldnt go any lighter than 10lbs - this setup is perfect for D-series
its just touching on too light - which is nice for balanced street/spirit driving

[TheSaint]

keep it clean please - no trolling

[TbM]

actually its the opposite on all hondas i have worked on (MANY)
CAI systems are quieter and provide better throttle response, fuel economy and low end power
SRI (like whale intakes) will be alot louder and give a nice gain in top end but ur fuel economy wont be as good and ur bottom end will suffer

putting 4-2-1 ebay headers onto a D-series will heavily combat the losses from the SRI - which makes it a good combo
but in B-series CAI is the way to go

i had a Fujita CAI on my B18c and it was amazing for mid and top end and was loud as hell
i put the same kit on my D15b and it lost alot of mid-top end and is hell quiet
most of my mates have had the same experiences
the best value for money intake kit you can get for D-series is the simota whale intake on ebay for $100
than use your factory intake arm as an air ram from your front bumper
Thats interesting i was of the impression that a short ram intake will give faster response due to the shorter path for air to travel ect, even the Sticky on Cai vs Sri (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?42865-FAQ-Cold-air-short-ram-intakes) says the same thing.

[TheSaint]

i suppose it comes down to what design the intake is
but my experience with several D-seires and B-series cars is that the
Injen/Fujita style CAI kits generally have slightly better response
and that the whale type dont because of the large chamber that it needs to fill before hitting the TB

this may be different again for normal SRI intakes

[Sexc86]

So has anyone here actually run a bisimoto camshaft yet?

[TheSaint]

there was one guy a while back that i was talking to via pm that said he had one
plenty of ppls over on dseries.org run them
apparently there are actually cheaper and more effective alternatives around tho hehe

[mugen_ctr]

quick one chaps, are all d16y gb interchangeable with other d16 engines eg. d16y1 gb on a d16y8 engine? need to know asap for certain lol....

[TheSaint]

no - not all of them are - but most
the D16y8/D16z6/D16y1/D15b ARE interchangeable
and all have the best ratios u can get out of the series

[~Sp33~]

Don't some of the SOHC D series run midshafts?

[Riced_Civic]

So has anyone here actually run a bisimoto camshaft yet?

isnt beeza running a bisi cam

[dougie_504]

isnt beeza running a bisi cam

Cam gear not shaft I think. Pretty sure he's running an a6 shaft

[Riced_Civic]

ahh thought he was running both shaft and gear

[TheSaint]

im running a D15b7 with D16a6 shaft and Bisimoto cam gear
to be honest the cam gear isnt that good
the dial marks rubbed off easily
the dial bolts were of poor quality
and the points of the dial bolts rubbed on the inner timing belt guard - causing a tonne of plastic shavings to get caught up in the timing belt
lucky there was no damage

next time i would definatly go for a skunk2 unit instead
much better design with allen key bolts

[mugen_ctr]

no - not all of them are - but most
the D16y8/D16z6/D16y1/D15b ARE interchangeable
and all have the best ratios u can get out of the series

cheers man, rushed off to buy a y1 gb for my y8 engine, gear ratios are very very close so i doubt id feel any difference :)

shame that d-series gb aint that strong as ive found out :(

from what i was shown, 3 bearings gone, one being the main culprit, the input shaft bearing, syncros worn out, but other wise the gears them selfs, 10/10

price of a rebuild a staggering 1.5k !?!?!?!???!?!?!?!??! >_<

[TheSaint]

the best 3 gearbox's for the D are the D15b, D16y1/D16z6 and the D16y8
the problem with the D16y8 box is that it is stamped the same as the D16y5 box's in australia (S40 B000)
so you can never tell which you are getting - normal ratio box's being S40 A000

good thing about the D15b and D15y1 is that the better ratio ones all have S20 B000
and the ones with the not as good ratios are all S20 A000

the strongest of the whole range is the JDM D15b
some of these even came with LSD from factory
this is also the box that Bisi uses in his 700hp monster
and what i am running on mine at the moment
(still not bullet proof - but crap loads better than my D15b7 box)

be careful to mention this when dealing with wreckers - they will happily sell you a "D16y1" gearbox
but it might be off a D15b7 etc because to them all D box's are the same
i had many heated discussions on the phone to wreckers about this until i finally found a proper JDM D15b box at Honbits in perth
what a mission that was - end up costing around $600 for the box, $200ish for exedy o.e clutch and exedy 10lbs flywheel
+ couple of hundred to my mechanic to fit it all up with new fluids and sump bolt

[Loagz]

Abit ot but Hondbits were great, got a few bits and pieces from there few years back. Few months ago went looking for them and they have closed down. Shame really because they were very helpful and they could source anything you needed.

[Sexc86]

I know plenty what goes on at d-series.org believe me. Im just curious to know if anyone on ozhonda / in australia has tried one yet

[dougie_504]

im running a D15b7 with D16a6 shaft and Bisimoto cam gear
to be honest the cam gear isnt that good
the dial marks rubbed off easily
the dial bolts were of poor quality
and the points of the dial bolts rubbed on the inner timing belt guard - causing a tonne of plastic shavings to get caught up in the timing belt
lucky there was no damage

next time i would definatly go for a skunk2 unit instead
much better design with allen key bolts


That US guy was saying that the Crower gear is top. Looked into that at all?

[tiksie]

So why did my post relating to headers/intakes get deleted ?

[viinnh]

okay so now im confused reading mixed things

what does top end and mid etc mean ?

i just want good power lets say 0-100 ??

[mugen_ctr]

okay so now im confused reading mixed things

what does top end and mid etc mean ?

i just want good power lets say 0-100 ??

u mean as in the power band????????

top end = the power is all in the top end rpm range, so no good on a dd, good example are the b16b, good power, but u can never really acess all 180hp unless u fang it till 8200rpm, which in old terms is a whipper snipper engine LOL....

and for mid, as plainly as it is, power is all in the mid rpm range, which is what most cars are like, which is ideal for dd....

good 0-100? no one with a d-series does that LOL, unless u plan on boosting it, than take it to the twisty rds instead, u appreciate it even more :)

[TbM]

okay so now im confused reading mixed things

what does top end and mid etc mean ?

i just want good power lets say 0-100 ??

Top end = high rpm
mid = mid range rpm

Depends on your budget too, quality cai is roughly twice the price of a fake whale penis intake, if you want good power i recommend the fujita Cai intake for your ek, it uses a smaller diameter pipe than than the injen which suits the d16y4 better.

[NeedVtec]

Just bought 20W-50 for my car, is that too thick ya reckon? Car drinks a lil oil, been through 10W-40, then 15W-40 would jumping to 20W-50 have any negative affects?
Engine is D16Y1

[TheSaint]

Top end = high rpm
mid = mid range rpm

Depends on your budget too, quality cai is roughly twice the price of a fake whale penis intake, if you want good power i recommend the fujita Cai intake for your ek, it uses a smaller diameter pipe than than the injen which suits the d16y4 better.

Fujita also have better quality pod filters too =)

[TheSaint]

Just bought 20W-50 for my car, is that too thick ya reckon? Car drinks a lil oil, been through 10W-40, then 15W-40 would jumping to 20W-50 have any negative affects?
Engine is D16Y1

the car should be running fine with 10w30
my D15b7 has done over 310k kms and still runs fine on Honda FEO 10w30

how many kms has it done? blowing any smoke etc?

might be worth posting in the noob section instead - probably get more general response to oil types there than in here

[viinnh]

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/400258118039?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_4135wt_1185

this seller has heaps of these. was thinking of picking up one of these

[dougie_504]

ahh thought he was running both shaft and gear

Misread you, thought you were asking about TheSaint ? using Bisi camshaft. He's not in any case.

Not sure about beeza, haven't seen him around in a long time! Could be...

[TbM]

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/400258118039?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_4135wt_1185

this seller has heaps of these. was thinking of picking up one of these
Doesnt say what diameter the piping is and the pod filter may not be of high quality, you want your pod to filter well so your engines not constantly sucking in dirt n crap. I still stand by my recommendation of fujita as they have good quality pods and use a pipe diameter suited to the d16y4. "FUJITA 96-00 EK CIVIC HX EX"
is the one i have on my Ek.
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd458/TbMindustrys/IMAG1027.jpg

[TheSaint]

almost the same kit as me with the black wrinkle piping etc
Fujita have a very good quality pod over other brands thats one thing i would have to agree on

i have to admit tho - the gain did not feel as dramatic in terms of response/power/sound when i put it on my D15b7 as when i put it on my B18c2
but i felt more of a difference with the whale type intake on my D-series - but when i put the whale type on my B18c2 it was the opposite
strange - the unit i put on the Dc2 was a stainless tube - and the one on the D-series is black wrinkle - would this affect performance/sound?

this is mine ...

http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp81/the_saint7/PB050387.jpg?t=1288925239

[beeza]

isnt beeza running a bisi cam

That's right Danny,just a stage 1 Lyle..

I only went stage 1 so I wouldnt have to upgrade the valvetrain but it's true what they say,forget stage 1 and go stage 2.1 is ok but 2 would be best.

The d needs hi-comp pistons and a tune too.

If these things are done plus the usual mods,it would be a sweet ride.

I ran an open filter at Lakeside and was hitting the stock speed limiter,160km/h down the straight.Timmy hit 175km/h in his JDM b16 and a guy in a track car was @ 200km/h,so I was pretty stoked,it ran real well,just the tyres was adverage,I will post a vid soon.

[beeza]

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy25/beeza4/100_2079.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy25/beeza4/100_2177.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy25/beeza4/100_2198.jpg

[markismaximus]

That's right Danny,just a stage 1 Lyle..

I only went stage 1 so I wouldnt have to upgrade the valvetrain but it's true what they say,forget stage 1 and go stage 2.1 is ok but 2 would be best.

The d needs hi-comp pistons and a tune too.

If these things are done plus the usual mods,it would be a sweet ride.

I ran an open filter at Lakeside and was hitting the stock speed limiter,160km/h down the straight.Timmy hit 175km/h in his JDM b16 and a guy in a track car was @ 200km/h,so I was pretty stoked,it ran real well,just the tyres was adverage,I will post a vid soon.

why does your car have a 160kph speed limit?

[beeza]

Stock ecu,so built in.

Get up,the auto! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNNyQMuVwdk

[markismaximus]

Stock ecu,so built in.

Get up,the auto! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNNyQMuVwdk

is that something that was only on autos or something? never heard of such a low speed cutout

[beeza]

Not sure..maybe cause it's the y4?..

[TheSaint]

neither my Dc2 or EG8 had a speed limiter?
wierd - my money would bet that its an auto thing

[beeza]

Yeah its definately there but not all the time as I have hit 200 a few times,weird alright.

It seems like those times the car was going hard and the ecu had learnt my driving and kept going.

Like,if I try it now,I dont know if it will be limited to 160,as it's not everyday I test it!

Probably an auto thing.

It's no problem at all and it has never been an issue at all,so that's good.

[TbM]

almost the same kit as me with the black wrinkle piping etc
Fujita have a very good quality pod over other brands thats one thing i would have to agree on

i have to admit tho - the gain did not feel as dramatic in terms of response/power/sound when i put it on my D15b7 as when i put it on my B18c2
but i felt more of a difference with the whale type intake on my D-series - but when i put the whale type on my B18c2 it was the opposite
strange - the unit i put on the Dc2 was a stainless tube - and the one on the D-series is black wrinkle - would this affect performance/sound?

this is mine ...

http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp81/the_saint7/PB050387.jpg?t=1288925239
Having it painted should not affect the performance as far as im aware. I just like black so i painted mine as i couldnt order a black version. Sound is irrelevant when it comes to performace, having a louder intake doesnt make you go faster it just makes you feel like your going faster.

That looks to be a different chassis than ek? the design of the bumper ect may give you different results. I.e. if the grill in the bumper allows enough air in for the pod to breathe. Ek pre-face has an adequate path via the front grill and the facelift can have a direct feed via the fog light cutouts in the bumper.

[TheSaint]

mine is a 93' EG8 sedan - i have a feed hose from the opening in the front bumper
and i have a louvered vent directly under the pod directing air from the bottom/front of the car
im quite aware that sound does not effect performance - its more of a curiousity

my Dc2 just had all the stock mouldings - so less airflow
but the induction pipe goes down the gap just in front of the engine mount on Dc2
where on the EG it goes through the hole for the resonator on the stock air box

mine isnt just painted black its a limited run 'wrinkle black' version of the intake from factory
the inside and outside diameters are wrinkled/dinted - like its been sandblasted or something
it also feels like theres an extra layer of insulation or something on the piping
the Dc2 kit had larger diameter piping but it was thinner and standard stainless material/finish

as for the color some may argue that having a reflective/shiny intake would reflect heat better
but i dont know if it would really make that much of a difference with cold air flowing through it
maybe for heat sheilding it would make more of a difference

[TbM]

If there is wrinkle paint on the inside too then it may effect the way the air travels through the pipe, may have also reduced the diameter of the pipe depending on how thick the paint is. Having a painted pipe should help avoid absorbing heat from the engine bay but once it was heated it would be harder to cool down. it wouldnt be a noticable difference, you would be better off heat wrapping it or using some sort of insulating foam/rubber if you wanted to keep the pipe cool .
are you sure the dc2 one was steel? IIRC most of the intakes ive seen are made from polished T6061 aluminium which absorbs and disapates heat quite quickly and looks somewhat like stainless steel.

What size piping is the kit for the eg? 2.5 , 2.75 or 3 inch?

Regards,
I dont even.....

[TheSaint]

not sure about the piping material on the Dc2 one - it was over 4 years ago
had it on the car for 1 day than the car got written off and i spent 12 months in a wheelchair + another 12 learning to walk again

as for the EG one - just got all 4 wisdom teeth taken out so i will have to go out and measure it wen im feeling a bit better lol

my guess would be that the Dc2 one was 2.5 and the EG one is 2.25
but ill measure it when i can and let you know - ill also see if the wrinkle is on the inside diameter as well

[TbM]

If it was a genuine fujita kit for the dc2 it almost be willing to bet my left nut it was T6061 aluminium alloy as thats the only thing ive seen fujita make intakes out of(painted ones may differ). heres mine before i painted it as an example.
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd458/TbMindustrys/IMAG0741.jpg
Pretty much looks like stainless steel.

Ill see if i can google the diameter of the fujita eg intake when i have some free time, just finished work so gonna play some ACR and relax, if the d15 is similar to the stock d16y4 in the ek the best diameter is supposedly 2.5 inch.

I must of misread your post i thought you said the inside was wrinkle painted. just quickly read it and posted a reply at work. the inside of my pipe definately doesnt have any wrinkles/dints. I was under the impression you want the internals of your intake piping to be smooth, one would assume having the inside wrinkled could cause unwanted turbulance.

Regards,
ACR = Win

[TheSaint]

im not sure about the inside diameter
ill go check when im feeling a bit better

the pic above is the finish that my Dc2 one was
most likely ally like you said

[viinnh]

if the d15 is similar to the stock d16y4 in the ek the best diameter is supposedly 2.5 inch.


fark well i got a intake for really cheap from my mate
http://i40.tinypic.com/aacgmq.jpg
i just measured it its a 3 inch...

edit: i havent gun it or anything cos no insurance on my car atm, only went a lap around the block, its very responsive on normal driving.

just i think this might eat a lot of fuel ?

[TbM]

The difference between 2.5 to 3 inch will be quite small, having a larger pipe of the same design usually reduce response and moves the power further up the rpm range compared to the smaller diameter pipe.

When i installed the fujita CAI on my car it did seem to use a little bit more fuel but i do drive it harder now so it could just be my right foot more than the intake.

[viinnh]

really mine was diffrent man just took it for a drive gear 1

0-60 is normally first gear
0-40 was way faster and 40-60 in first was just a little faster or the same

car was fully warmed up

[TbM]

really mine was diffrent man just took it for a drive gear 1

0-60 is normally first gear
0-40 was way faster and 40-60 in first was just a little faster or the same

car was fully warmed up
Sorry i should of been more clear, you will notice the difference between stock and your 3 inch but you wouldnt notice much of a difference between 2.5 to 3 inch CAI of the same design, the 2.5 inch just gives you better response/mid range compared to a 3 inch. which is what you want for a daily driver.

[~Sp33~]

really mine was diffrent man just took it for a drive gear 1

0-60 is normally first gear
0-40 was way faster and 40-60 in first was just a little faster or the same

car was fully warmed up

Audible HP + butt dyno.

[viinnh]

okay just recorded my test run but id rather not show here might get flamed

[dougie_504]

Don't be silly mate! Show test run! I'm keen.

[viinnh]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6E_vnsZQ1Nw

47 secs thats when i try out 0-100

i like to have my safe stopping distance as i have a cxi (drums) and they are easy to lock up. happened once already

[dougie_504]

Looks like it has plenty of zip to get around in bro! People always hate on the D-series but there's no denying it can keep up with traffic or overtake easily.

Thanks for the vid :)

[TheSaint]

i would suggest getting a tacho and pushing the gears out towards redline a bit more

video made me dizzy btw lol

[viinnh]

i think this intake might have made it slower then a stock arm with a pod. LMAO

[cuppa]

Dissing the cai, pshhhh -

[viinnh]

i would suggest getting a tacho and pushing the gears out towards redline a bit more

video made me dizzy btw lol

i still dont have a tacho but my redline for gear ones under 60! wtf.. and yes some bitch swore at me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BMhNzGQxWbM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FbI0RNIcgVw

[grifty]

anyone tried the intake manifold spacer? worth the $$ and the time?

[Gio]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6E_vnsZQ1Nw

47 secs thats when i try out 0-100

i like to have my safe stopping distance as i have a cxi (drums) and they are easy to lock up. happened once already

Need to learn to use the gears man. I have never locked up *touch wood*, nothing better than shifting down while using the break and almost going through the windscreen but not locking up. BAU5

[TheSaint]

anyone tried the intake manifold spacer? worth the $$ and the time?

i have the hondata intake manifold gasket on my D15b7
installed it when i put on the USDM D16z6 intake manifold
used Permatex Aviation gasket fluid on both sides for installation

i would say it has made a difference in eliminating the heat transfer from the head to the intake manifold
but have no idea how much performance was gained

[JohnnyJohnJohn]

Hey!

Ok got myself a daily driven D16A8, Meticulously looked after, genuine 200+K's always serviced with genuine honda liquids etc, Compression test gave me 205psi within all cynlinders.
But I can't figure out why my head, more specifically my valves/tappets are considerably loud? I have always adjusted the valves to the factory specs, torque specs are spot on, using the correct oil, but it is still loud enough to be heard and does not get quieter throughout the rev range. Is this normal for these engine? Cause i have a few mates with either a D16y8/y4/y1 etc and apart from the exhaust/intake noise, the engine itself is very subtle and quite smooth reving.
Also there is quite a vibration given of when i floor it here and there, more than usual compared to other D16's? My guess is my head is worn? or could it be something totally different?

Was hoping somone could shed some light? ;)

P.S. Will try to record a vid so it should be more easier to understand.

Cheers!
Johnny.

[Bludger]

maybe you're doing something wrong.

[~Sp33~]

Hey!

Ok got myself a daily driven D16A8, Meticulously looked after, genuine 200+K's always serviced with genuine honda liquids etc, Compression test gave me 205psi within all cynlinders.
But I can't figure out why my head, more specifically my valves/tappets are considerably loud? I have always adjusted the valves to the factory specs, torque specs are spot on, using the correct oil, but it is still loud enough to be heard and does not get quieter throughout the rev range. Is this normal for these engine? Cause i have a few mates with either a D16y8/y4/y1 etc and apart from the exhaust/intake noise, the engine itself is very subtle and quite smooth reving.
Also there is quite a vibration given of when i floor it here and there, more than usual compared to other D16's? My guess is my head is worn? or could it be something totally different?

Was hoping somone could shed some light? ;)

P.S. Will try to record a vid so it should be more easier to understand.

Cheers!
Johnny.

I've always noticed the valvetrain is quite noisy.

[JohnnyJohnJohn]

maybe you're doing something wrong.

I really hope not, but then again I doubt it to be honest, been doing it for ages and been following the haynes manual etc. And the car drives like a dream, only noisy thats all =\


I've always noticed the valvetrain is quite noisy.

Are you rocking a D16A8 aswell? How's the engine like? really eager to fix this thing if it is broke...

I'm kinda thinking it sounds more like an oldschool type car//

[Bludger]

so what correct oil are you using?

[JohnnyJohnJohn]

Well since I've owned it I've been using FEO 10w30 for a long period of time, so has the previous owner(as i was told), a few months back I figured I'd try Penrite 5w-40 (HPR-5 Semi-Syn) for reasons such as the weather getting hotter, quicker warmups from cold starts and overall quieting down the noisy valvetrain and my car actually runs smoother aswell, good improvments and also not burning any oil.

I figured after summer passes or whenever the weather gets colder ill try penrite 5w-30 since hpr-5 works so well, in my opinion anyway?

[TheSaint]

my neighbor just bought an EG5 with D16a8 in it - at first the valvetrain was really loud and the car ran like crap
it had 235km city k's on the clock and was in pretty rough shape when we got it

i changed the oil + filter to Honda OEM FEO 10w30 with Honda OEM Blue filter + generic magnetic sump bolt
flushed the radiator and put in Honda OEM Blue coolant
and cleaned out the IACV, FITV, TB and calibrated the TPS
also adjusted the tappets/valve lash to correct specs
and replaced the crappy ebay pod filter with a Fujita unit
cleaned and painted the valve cover (not that it really effects performance)
removed any unnecessary wiring and did a clean + cable tuck
cleaned out the distributor and cleaned all the earth cable contact points

now the car runs MUCH MUCH better - but the valvetrain is still a tad noisy

[JohnnyJohnJohn]

my neighbor just bought an EG5 with D16a8 in it - at first the valvetrain was really loud and the car ran like crap
it had 235km city k's on the clock and was in pretty rough shape when we got it

i changed the oil + filter to Honda OEM FEO 10w30 with Honda OEM Blue filter + generic magnetic sump bolt
flushed the radiator and put in Honda OEM Blue coolant
and cleaned out the IACV, FITV, TB and calibrated the TPS
also adjusted the tappets/valve lash to correct specs
and replaced the crappy ebay pod filter with a Fujita unit
cleaned and painted the valve cover (not that it really effects performance)
removed any unnecessary wiring and did a clean + cable tuck
cleaned out the distributor and cleaned all the earth cable contact points

now the car runs MUCH MUCH better - but the valvetrain is still a tad noisy

I've done nearly everything you've mentioned and yea gotta agree that that valve-train is quite loud, wanted to know if there's anything I could possibly do to the head?

[TheSaint]

have you adjusted the valve lash/tappets?

[~Sp33~]

I really hope not, but then again I doubt it to be honest, been doing it for ages and been following the haynes manual etc. And the car drives like a dream, only noisy thats all =\



Are you rocking a D16A8 aswell? How's the engine like? really eager to fix this thing if it is broke...

I'm kinda thinking it sounds more like an oldschool type car//

I just swapped it out for a DOHC ZC, which is pretty much the same. I had the d16a8 for 5 years though. It's a nice engine, torquey enough for a civic with decent pull at the top.

I wouldn't worry about the valve noise if you've adjusted the tappets.

[JDM-derek]

Yo sup D series guys and girls..cbf starting a thread

so heres my story, I just got my fulls and was planing still go ahead with the B18c2 swap...atm im loving boost and not keen on any imports. I was looking on Ebay at cheap turbo Civic EK kits.

The question is will it do the job and running stock ECU still ?
will stock Motor and gear box handle it ....but running under 7psi ???
Insurance gonna hassle me ??


Its a D16y7 about 190k on the clock lol

[Mikecivic78]

Yo sup D series guys and girls..cbf starting a thread

so heres my story, I just got my fulls and was planing still go ahead with the B18c2 swap...atm im loving boost and not keen on any imports. I was looking on Ebay at cheap turbo Civic EK kits.

The question is will it do the job and running stock ECU still ?
will stock Motor and gear box handle it ....but running under 7psi ???
Insurance gonna hassle me ??


Its a D16y7 about 190k on the clock lol

good luck trying to source a decent turbo kit for D series. E bay kits are generally shaite

you can't use stock ecu, u need aftermarket chip and tune

insurance may be cool, depends which company.

[TheSaint]

ebay kits are okay as a base to start from - but alot of the parts will need to be replaced with better quality stuff
the turbo manifolds are generally the biggest problem - they are pretty crap

you will need either a standalone ECU or some chipping gear to run and tune the setup

if the engine hasnt been well maintained in its life expect to see some premature wear real quick

[NelsonLSY]

Hey guys, wondering would a B series throttle body fit D series?

Im in HK right now and parts of Honda here are so cheap...so planning to get some bits back to Aus...
Still thinking of what else I could put in my suitcase tho...

[NelsonLSY]

and could my D16Y1 runs better with the ECU of the JDM D15B VTEC?

[2MPRS]

any obd1 throttle body is compatible (eg f series,d series, b series) u wont notice much gain in a stock motor even if u port match the intake manifold to it. if the ecu from the d15b vtec was better wouldnt u think they would use it stock lol?

[NelsonLSY]

right tho....was just thinking the JDM one has different vtec engaging point and stuff...might be able to run better in it's 1.6 litre brother....

[cuppa]

Is it normal for my d16y1 to shoot smoke as i accelerate to 3krpm on gear one? and also when i hit vtec

[mugen_ctr]

Is it normal for my d16y1 to shoot smoke as i accelerate to 3krpm on gear one? and also when i hit vtec

white smoke? no, piston rings or valve seals on there way out...

[cuppa]

Nope, just greyish smoke

[Mikecivic78]

normal engine shouldn't smoke at all.

troubleshooting time

[cuppa]

time for h22 swap.

[mugen_ctr]

Nope, just greyish smoke


Wait my bad LOL, mixed it around, its prbz a head gasket problem, bluish whitish is more to do with internal piston rings or valve

[cuppa]

will it die anytime soon?

[dougie_504]

Just check your oil colour (under cap and in dip stick).

Check your coolant level/colour.

Get a compression test to see if the rings a stuffed.


What oil are you using? Brand, grade and full/semi-synth or mineral?

[Bludger]

will it die anytime soon?
mate, D series the best.

[~Sp33~]

Wait my bad LOL, mixed it around, its prbz a head gasket problem, bluish whitish is more to do with internal piston rings or valve

Such good advice from ozhonda.

Grey smoke is usually caused by the car overfueling (too much fuel burning) Could be caused by several things (poor ignition,vacuum leaks, stuck injector are a few examples).

Start by replacing your ignition leads if you haven't in the past few years, and a new set of plugs while you're at it.

I didn't read what car you have, but if the map sensor doesn't bolt to the throttle body on yours (obd0) then check the vacuum line between the intake manifold and the map sensor which is on the firewall on OBD0 cars and is prone to causing a rich burn.

[2MPRS]

had a free dyno run today thanks to a friend pulled 67.8kw with a auto d16a8 with i/h/e what do you guys think isnt it a bit low ?

[Bludger]

had a free dyno run today thanks to a friend pulled 67.8kw with a auto d16a8 with i/h/e what do you guys think isnt it a bit low ?
I think d15b7 would have gotten more.

[2MPRS]

thats what im thinking but the guy at the dyno said id make alot more if the car was manual

[Mikecivic78]

had a free dyno run today thanks to a friend pulled 67.8kw with a auto d16a8 with i/h/e what do you guys think isnt it a bit low ?low? what u talkin' bout?

stock b16a2 civic makes about 77-80kw in stock form.

67.8kw for an auto D-series with i/h/e is pretty good IMO

[senna]

I think d15b7 would have gotten more.

good info hear guise

[dougie_504]

D16 should be 65-75 depending on mods/dyno.

B16a IMO 85-95. Below 80 I would be seriously asking questions.

[mocchi]

D16 should be 65-75 depending on mods/dyno.

B16a IMO 85-95. Below 80 I would be seriously asking questions.

would that be at the wheels yea? just making sure

[trism]

Yeap.

[Mikecivic78]

D16 should be 65-75 depending on mods/dyno.

B16a IMO 85-95. Below 80 I would be seriously asking questions.

On a proper (conservative dyno, not a US Disney one) dyno 77-80fwkw is normal and healthy stock b16a2. Anymore and the reading is false.

http://autospeed.com/cms/A_7484/article.html :In terms of peak power, the standard car previously generated 77kW ATW
There are other results ive seen for stock VtiRs and they are about the same, but carnt find on the internets atm

[dougie_504]

I disagree that you can lose approximately 40kw/33% from the drivetrain.

Have never ever seen a b16a pull that LOW without being sick. From the three dyno days I have been to, including Autosalon where you have plenty of comparison, the lowest yet healthy figure has been around 85kw and up to 100kw on the same dyno same day.

A friend made 78kw and then we found she was running on three cylinders.

Need compression results, otherwise 75-80kw is a very low reading dyno IMO.

[Bludger]

b16 fanboys v d15 fanboys.

no competition here bro'

[Mikecivic78]

I disagree that you can lose approximately 40kw/33% from the drivetrain.

Have never ever seen a b16a pull that LOW without being sick. From the three dyno days I have been to, including Autosalon where you have plenty of comparison, the lowest yet healthy figure has been around 85kw and up to 100kw on the same dyno same day.
A friend made 78kw and then we found she was running on three cylinders.

Need compression results, otherwise 75-80kw is a very low reading dyno IMO.

No offense, but I seriously doubt those cars were 100% stock and I strongly reckon a lot of dyno readings are crap. People love hearing high numbers way too much, and many dynos give the people what they want... ie; not the truth.

I trust Autospeed's dyno results, they are really no BS. Their runs are done on very low KM, 100% stock cars.

Apparently, my dead stock 01WRX would pull 103awkw (not counting torque) on a Dynodynamics awd dyno.

[dougie_504]

No offense, but I seriously doubt those cars were 100% stock and I strongly reckon a lot of dyno readings are crap. People love hearing high numbers way too much, and many dynos give the people what they want... ie; not the truth.

I trust Autospeed's dyno results, they are really no BS. Their runs are done on very low KM, 100% stock cars.

Apparently, my dead stock 01WRX would pull 103awkw (not counting torque) on a Dynodynamics awd dyno.


Not completely stock of course, but what B-series is?

Same day, same dyno, as a group:

ED9 with B18C7. SRI heat shielded, can't remember header, and 1.75" exhaust (for engineering) made 85.4kw (later made 108.5kw with exhaust and tuning).
EK with D16Y8, totally stock made 76kw
EF8 with SRI/H/E made 89kw
EF8 with CAI/H/E + head build (Skunk2 stage one, gears, ported/matched, valvetrain and untuned) made 100.7kw (later found to be losing compression in one cylinder).
EF8 with CAI/H/E made 99.4kw
EG2 with ITB's + full exhaust (and ?internals but would not disclose) made 108kw.
MR2 Spider with I/H/E made like 85kw also

So as you can see what had a fair few cars to compare, all healthy bar one, and a B18C7 running poorly. Which numbers are inflated and which are deflated?

Lowest B16A I ever saw was about 75-78kw at Autosalon, and we later found the plugs were rooted and one cylinder wasn't firing properly.

[Mikecivic78]

Not completely stock of course, but what B-series is?

Same day, same dyno, as a group:



Autospeed's results were achieved on a 100% stock car all the way down to stock intake resonator, as they do on most of their performance (before and after) write ups. Bog stock is 77-80kw and that's healthy. 33% drive train losses is on the money.

No one on that dyno day you mentioned had stock intake and headers, so of course they are pulling comfortably over the 77-80kw stock... add intake/header/exhaust and that will net an extra 15fwkw. With tune, I can see them pulling the high 90s.



BTW, the day you talk about, what dyno was it, and which shop?

[dougie_504]

The exact date I can't remember. About 25+ degC.

Dyno Dynamics dyno.
Fitzgerald Racing Services, Box Hill, VIC.
http://www.fitz-racing.com.au/

Of course you're welcome to criticise Dyno Dynamics, but would you comment on the results I have shown you? I'm not interested in stock resonators used by Autospeed. The car you referred to earlier (The EM1 turbo) clearly wasn't standard down to the resonator either.

I have given you pretty much a precise list of cars and exact mods/power figures delivered within a couple of hours of one another, so I'm very interested to see what you have to say. Of course you can't put a 10kw ATW difference down to a SRI/CAI or w/e.

The EF8 that made 99.4kw with I/H/E is my own, and I later found out that it was compression very well on all four cylinders at 215/210/215/220, which is why I believe I was making satisfactory power compared to some of my friends that day.

[Mikecivic78]

The exact date I can't remember. About 25+ degC.

Dyno Dynamics dyno.
Fitzgerald Racing Services, Box Hill, VIC.
http://www.fitz-racing.com.au/

Of course you're welcome to criticise Dyno Dynamics, but would you comment on the results I have shown you? I'm not interested in stock resonators used by Autospeed. The car you referred to earlier (The EM1 turbo) clearly wasn't standard down to the resonator either.

I have given you pretty much a precise list of cars and exact mods/power figures delivered within a couple of hours of one another, so I'm very interested to see what you have to say. Of course you can't put a 10kw ATW difference down to a SRI/CAI or w/e.

The EF8 that made 99.4kw with I/H/E is my own, and I later found out that it was compression very well on all four cylinders at 215/210/215/220, which is why I believe I was making satisfactory power compared to some of my friends that day.

On the contrary, I find Dyno Dynamics to be good. Where did I criticise it?

The article does state that the em1 was dynoed 100% stock. I have seen another article which had the same information about average stock ek4/em1 results which is where I got the numbers.

Doesn't the EF8 come with a JDM b16a? Doesn't that motor make an extra 7kw at the fly compared to EM1's B16a2?

[hitoriko]

no dyno is ever 100% accurate. So many different factors, fuel, engine condition, oils etc.... Even factory claims of HP figures arent always correct its used as an AVG figure.

and i would say that on AVG 80kw - 90kw on a healthy B16.

You can argue until your blue in the face but doesn't change the fact that no dyno will give you an exact figure

[trism]

I've said it once and I'll say it again, dynos are only good for tuning purposes, or for comparing same day same car, before and after results for mods.

Comparing different cars on different dynos at different times is pointless.

[dougie_504]

On the contrary, I find Dyno Dynamics to be good. Where did I criticise it?

The article does state that the em1 was dynoed 100% stock. I have seen another article which had the same information about average stock ek4/em1 results which is where I got the numbers.

Doesn't the EF8 come with a JDM b16a? Doesn't that motor make an extra 7kw at the fly compared to EM1's B16a2?

Never said you did, just saying you're welcome to attribute some of the figures to the dyno.

What I really wanted we're your thoughts on those figures given they are all from the same day/dyno. And funnily enough every single person had 15" rims, varying from re001 to t1r etc.

JDM b16a (first gen) is 118kw. 7kw more would be the b18c2.

[_CRX_]

A whole page of sh1t that has nothing to do with d series.....good work

[mocchi]

A whole page of sh1t that has nothing to do with d series.....good work

hey man, youre saying this d series discussion is shit?
this is a personal attack to another user.














http://i930.photobucket.com/albums/ad147/xRed_King/meme-face-photoshop-e1292856031998.jpg?t=1301262597












but seriously, i dont see anything wrong with the discussion for d series power figure
all the time i had d15b sohc vtak, never knew how much power it put down.
always thought it was around 60kw. felt really slow.

[_CRX_]

Lol the last 10 posts have nothing to do with d series powere figures

[2MPRS]

Lol i just asked about my fail d16a8 ended up being a discussion about b16s

[dougie_504]

Lol i just asked about my fail d16a8 ended up being a discussion about b16s

Like we said man, not fail. Good power!




Lol the last 10 posts have nothing to do with d series powere figures

So we went a bit off-topic, big deal. At least we're having healthy discussion. Your own bullsh!t posts haven't been relative to any engine at all, let alone on-topic like you so childishly whinge about. Keep spamming and you'll get infracted, last warning.

[_CRX_]

<deleted>

[Killa From Manila]

just remember different dyno's will give a diff power reading.
take it to the strip to really gauge where your power is at

[hitoriko]

Lol i just asked about my fail d16a8 ended up being a discussion about b16s

Its not a fail engine at all! 68kw from an auto isn't terrible - just a question of how much you want at the wheels :)

I've got a CRX with the D16A8 in stock form from factory i want to dyno it to see my base and then go from there - i'd love to get a power to weight of 1kw - 10kg (so around 90ish kw atw)

[Vvvtec]

I miss my old d15

[mugen_ctr]

just remember different dyno's will give a diff power reading.
take it to the strip to really gauge where your power is at

+1

CANT STOP STRESSING IT, DYNO = TUNING TOOL!

Too many of these dyno figures are based on peak power which isnt what u want on a low displacement 4 banger, regardless of B series or D series for that matter.

Peak power means shit all if u cant use if effectively! And i can say this from personal experience!

U want good mid - top end power, which is what u should be aiming for, and if ur cars a DD, than u only wanna aim for mid range power, not peak... sucks being over taken by a 4 banger camry doesnt it LOL

[rpm boy]

Quick question for the d series boys, have heard of a b series box going on a d series is it true? If so would an auto eg6 box bolt straight on?, the cars a sedan eg single cam so not sure what engine code it is

[MIKO_OL]

Quick question for the d series boys, have heard of a b series box going on a d series is it true? If so would an auto eg6 box bolt straight on?, the cars a sedan eg single cam so not sure what engine code it is

What are you trying to achieve ? a b sseries auto box into a d series? IF their both manual/ auto then straight swapp but if your converting the eg6's auto box with a manual, bseries manual box than a d series. Dont think you'd downgrade unless your on a massive budget.

Also if your going from auto > manual you'd have to repuck the box and also change the ecu's setting to make the engine think its manual I.E putting parking sensor cable in at all times for nuetral etc.

Correct me if im wrong, bit all over the place.

[dougie_504]

Quick question for the d series boys, have heard of a b series box going on a d series is it true? If so would an auto eg6 box bolt straight on?, the cars a sedan eg single cam so not sure what engine code it is

Take a picture of your engine. The engine number should be printed on the left hand side, front of engine, just on the block where the head/block meet.

Yes, it's possible to do this setup. It's called the 'D2B' and I've seen it done in the USA, but never in Australia. It's not a straight bolt-on setup and requires some conversion plates etc. There are companies that produce complete conversion packages.

Your best bet would be to do some research on http://www.d-series.org/. They do a lot of things that we don't. However I wouldn't advise going down this path - better off just getting a B-series, or if you're really keen on a better box for your D-series just change out some of the gears for shorter ratios and buy an after-market final drive. If you want to do this (again I don't recommend it) PM me and I can point you to a person who sells these products for D-series GBox's.

[rpm boy]

Thanks boys , no a friend of mines box has just given up and he asked if he could put my old eg6 auto box on his eg d series(also auto), just had to make sure if it fit which I didnt think it would bolt on so all good, thanks for the info guys

[NelsonLSY]

the gear ratio of the eg vti is extra long....especially the third gear...
any d series gearbox could fit but with a shorter gear ratio?

[markismaximus]

the gear ratio of the eg vti is extra long....especially the third gear...
any d series gearbox could fit but with a shorter gear ratio?

you don't know what you are talking about, the AUDM EG breeze, Gli and VTi all had the same gear ratios for 1st, 2nd, and 3rd. The VTi box has a shorter 4th and 5th gear

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd121/mx83cressida/Honda%20FSM%20Pages/EG-gear.jpg

[d-series-Mike]

[QUOTE=markismaximus;3471079]you don't know what you are talking about QUOTE]


Depends where nelsonLSY is from mate, i had a jdm vti in the uk with a d15b vtec, s20 gearbox, 3rd gear would hit the jdm limiter of 112mph @approx 4500rpm, it was crazy long, me and my mates thought it was friggin hilarious ha

[markismaximus]

Depends where nelsonLSY is from mate, i had a jdm vti in the uk with a d15b vtec, s20 gearbox, 3rd gear would hit the jdm limiter of 112mph @approx 4500rpm, it was crazy long, me and my mates thought it was friggin hilarious ha

given this is OZHONDA (an Australian forum) unless otherwise specified most people would assume he is living in Australia...

[~Sp33~]

i had a jdm vti....3rd gear would hit the jdm limiter of 112mph @approx 4500rpm, it was crazy long.....

Cool story bro.

http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/7758/img3117l.jpg

[hitoriko]

Hey guys

just abit OffTopic:

What would be the lowest safe oil pressure for a d16a8 engine i've googles and checked a few other forums but have yet to find my answer.

cheers

[~Sp33~]

At what RPM?

Why do you need to know?

[ouch]

anyone know where the thermoswitch is on my ed6?

[dougie_504]

Thermostat?

Probably at the back of the engine, left side, down low.

[hitoriko]

At what RPM?

Why do you need to know?

Im fitting gauges with a warning fuction and just want to set it up

[hitoriko]

anyone know where the thermoswitch is on my ed6?

thermo swich is on the side of the head there should be 2 switches a white and a green (from memory) white is the one that turns your fan on and off and the green is the one that shows the temp on your gauge

i hope that helps

[ouch]

is it on the thermostat housing? i cant find it!

[mocchi]

is it on the thermostat housing? i cant find it!

i think its under dizzy.
2 wire.

next to 1 wire coolant sensor

[hitoriko]

http://img.tapatalk.com/657710c1-6e7b-adab.jpg

[markismaximus]

Cool story bro.

http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/7758/img3117l.jpg

what a burn. nice

[EK1_]

Hey guys, Very interested in building a D!
I currently have a stock D16Y4 in my EK. Been reading through this thread and the best head to go would be a D16Y1? as it has the most after market support and what not!?
I was also wondering would the D16Y1 head bolt straight on to the D16Y4 Block?
Pretty noob, sorry about all the questions LOL!

[2MPRS]

you dont want a d16y1 motor in your car as it is from an eg and would be impossible to register. instead of doing just the head go find a d16y8 (sohc vtec d series for the ek civic) and just install the whole engine alot cheaper than changing just heads as you can find them for less then 500bucks with transmission,ecu, wiring etc

[EK1_]

Cheers 2MPRS!

So best to go with the D16Y8 head from a EJ8 right? Is there a fair bit of aftermarket support for them?! Kinda wanting to build a beast D daily!

[2MPRS]

dont just get a head dude switch the whole motor over so much easier and cheaper. very good aftermarket support dont expect much power for cheap if you go n/a cheapest route with the d series is to turbo them.

[EK1_]

Sorry, was just curious if the head bolted onto the D16Y4 bottom. Yeah i know it's not gonna make crazy power, just want to be different and build a D LOL. Was originally gonna go B18, but rather not spend that much!

[2MPRS]

yeah the d16y8 will bolt to the head but imo its really not worth all the extra cost to take the head off and put a new one on unless u are going for a full build. put the d16y8 motor in i/h/e and call it a day anything more its better to go b series

[dougie_504]

I wouldn't recommend building the D if you aren't mechanically experienced. Takes a lot of modification to build a 'monster'. You're looking at a complete rebuild with new pistons and a full head upgrade (cams, valvetrain, port work etc) plus ecu and tuning. Need huge compression.

Best bet IMO would be to get yourself a B16A or B18C.

[hitoriko]

The easy way to make power on the D is turbo - you can run 7-10psi safely on a stock bottom end with a good tune.

[dougie_504]

200 horse max on the SOHC if oem. Then you start snapping rods.

[mugen_ctr]

200 horse max on the SOHC if oem. Then you start snapping rods.

some have been lucky to push more than 220hp on stock block with arp head studs, but i think thats just asking for more trouble... so long as u dont push more than 200hp with X amount of psi, than most ppl are sweet...

though once u go forged items more power is definate the go, or the cheaper route Vitara rods+piston, 300hp plus is achievable with this setup which in my book is a winner for the price compared to building up a boosted b16 or b18c

[EK1_]

Hmmm, yeah i heard it's not that easy building a D, but i have access to the tools and some type of help as i'm a first year apprentice! Not really looking to build a 'Monster' D-series motor, just a daily with a little bit of kick? Also, keeping this N/A!

Was originally going to put a B18, but now i don't know, just decided to change my mind Haha.

[hitoriko]

be different half the fun (imo) running a D. Plus the engines are everywhere because of all the Bswap/Kswap people hell if i could afford it i'd H-swap my CRX

[EK1_]

Pretty much why i wanna do a D swap Hitoriko! :D

[dougie_504]

Rods are good for 200HP safely. Any more and you either need to shotpeen, cryogenically treat or replace with forged items.

Pistons are good for about 7,500-8,000 RPM. Once you hit 8,000+ the landings start to fail somewhat. Same as above. Shotpeen, cryo or replace.

Stress on the bolts is more from RPM than power. OE ones are generally fine though but if you're going 8,000-9,000 RPM with a 90mm stroke then the stress on the bolts is quite huge. If you're sticking 7,500 or below then I'm sure most bolts will be fine if they haven't been re-used and if they have been installed properly.

[Jooboy]

So just bought an ej8. It's been sitting for some time (10 months plus). Filled it up with fuel. 98 from shell. Anyway it idles crazy low. I'm talking 1000 or less. Has stalled once but also revs amazingly slowly. Will crawl along until about 4000 rpm and will run great. Have not reset the ecu but will try tomorrow. Could it just be the old fuel? Any quick tricks?

[dougie_504]

Maybe run a little injector cleaner. But idling at 1000 isn't bad, should probably only be 750-900? Look under the bonnet, there may be a sticker than indicates what the idle should be.

Give the car a full service. Flush and replace all the fluids.

And have you driven a SOHC D before? They all feel like sh!t under 4,000 that's when they start to rev out nicely.

[Jooboy]

Yeah it's scary gutless. If I stop at the lights it will idle bullshit slow. Take off and it literally crawls will take 20-30 seconds to get to 60. The minute I shift into second it drops right back down and takes forever to get back up to revs. Once it's at 4000 plus runs way better.

[zhong]

^^^ Change your spark plugs!

D-Series with snail for win!