my dc5r would redline to 8200 before, i think i got it on video ill need to find out
with your other question! someone needs to answer that :D
Printable View
my dc5r would redline to 8200 before, i think i got it on video ill need to find out
with your other question! someone needs to answer that :D
Cheers :thumbsup: Type S Redline is 8100rpm and i believe the rev limiter is around 8300 / 8400rpm??
The only thing that controls the rev limiter would be the ECU itself. The rev limiter is a set value programmed by the ECU and is not changeable on the stock ECU based on any other factors. The only way you would be able to change the rev limiter is to use modifying the ECU with a program such as Hondata KPRO. With the Hondata KPRO, you can either increase or decrease the value as you please :)
The stock analogue tacho meter is inaccurate and will tend to give you a misleading figure of about up to (+ or -) 300rpm in the upper high rpm boundary. What you are seeing is the result of inertia occuring when the needle revs past a certain point and 'bounces' back. The only way to accurately determine the rpm is to use a digital meter of some sort directly connected to the ECU or a KPRO datalog, RSM or any other digital rev meter reading.
:cool: :angel:
(Btw I'm looking for a post quality point! *hint hint* :p)
Hope this helps! :D
Great thanks, this has just confirmed my original thoughts :thumbsup:
Cheers
From what i know of, the DC5r REDLINES at 7900rpm and the REV LIMITER engages at 8400rpm. I believe this as my type r hits the limiter at 8400 on the dial!
Where can i get a digital copy of a Integra DC5 type S complete service manual. the big ass one that Honda uses.
When EL_DC5 says Max, I assume he means rev cut out.
DC5S redline (judging from tacho) starts at 8100. engine cuts out at ~ 8400. As some have said, trying to judge actual rpm cutout from the tacho isn't very accurate.
I can't find a close up of an AUDM DC5R tacho right now. From what I can remember the redline starts between 7900 and 8100. As for cutout i'm not sure. but would have thought that it'd be higher than 8100.
Anyway, does replacing your stock airbox with a gruppeM one void your engine warranty?
The typeS doesnt have LSD? rofl...
hahahah um ok.. i personally think the Type S is a very capable car.. Its not protending to be a Type R like our Aus DC5.
Yes i know the DVD... its the one were they Race the pre/face lifted model against the new one. Our Type S shares the same cosmetic pieces as the JDM Type S but gets a slightly detuned Type R engine (as the JDM Type S gets the 118kw 5spd version used in our luxury) All i was saying is that the Type S is a very capable car and isn't pretending to be something it isn't :p
Man the typeR has LSD...
JDM typeR > typeS
AUD Type R > TypeS (recaros ftw y0!)
Jap typeS = shit
JDM Type R = Winner. I wanna import one but ****ing stupid sevs laws!
Have to find a privately imported one, very hard to find!
I would have bought a Type R if it was a REAL type R. At least the Type S knows what it is :p I wouldn't swap my AUDM TYpe S for an AUDM Type R, plane and simple!
dont be so harsh you will make all the AU Type R guys feel bad,
I dont see the logic in making these drastic variations in the models... Its ****ing stupid, lets DOWNGRADE THE ENGINE, BRAKES, EXHAUST.. **** LETS JUST DOWNGRADE EVERYTHING!
Big sigh....
Ohwell atleast i can beat those fkn r32's and falcodores which litter the streets at night.
And i would NEVER trade my Type R for a Type S
Sorry i didn't mean to come across Mean at all. (and i sure dont want to upset the DC5R guys as i think the S's are out numbered on this forum :p) I think it was silly of Honda to downgrade the AUDM DC5R as the JDM model offers so much. As for the S v's R its all down to preference as they both offer very similar potential.
Most likely the changes were made to keep the price competitive with similar models in the AUS market. I can handle the little less power, but the brakes and suspension is really what made the Type R.
lol!!!
man i think there was some conspiricy or something going on back when the type R came out.... "we cant let these little things own the falcodores too hard!" Ofcourse no one cares about the evos and sti's because they have such a high pricetag in comparison.
You will find that some things have been taken off - but have you considered the benefits over the type R?
With the better cams and better compression, my car was able to produce the same KW's completely stock with upgraded ECU as what a modded type R with at least exhaust and intake... could possibly be on par with I/H/E and ECU combination in a type R but still waiting to prove this one ;) :)
AUDM dc5r redline is at 7900rpm.
as far as the dc5r vs dc5s debate, they are quite different cars which will appeal to different people. i could have got one when i was buying my car and i had quite a few drives of a new one before i made my mind up but i much prefered the recaros, LSD and less sound deadening of the dc5r. while the dc5s is overall quieter and probably easier to live with day to day, easier to get in and out of but the seats suck when going for a fang, and quiter interior.
its personal preference i say, if you are into the street racing look R it is, S is nice for luxury ;D
theres no better i say just what you think is better for the owner ;D
Look The suspension and the interior is what should of only been changed in my opinion. LSD bring no discomfort but lets you put the power down more effectively. The Brakes we all got ripped off with, i dont think most of us would bother upgrading the Stock JDM Brembos.
i have seen a number of discussions of people finding the dc5r brembos lacking in overall perfromance even compared to dc2r brakes. there are heaps of brake options which will perform better than the brembos and be easier to install.
and are you saying only suspension and interior should have been changed from JDM or AUDM dc5r?
For the cost of the JDM DC5 Brembo upgrade to our Integras isn't worth it. There are much better and cheaper alternatives that dont require changing hubs etc.
No, its just Ozhonda in general as majority of the drivers here are under 21 hence it won't really interest them (where as the Civic Type R's, Integra Type R's are more suitable for that age bracket).
I've been to market studies for the Type S, where the target market is 25+ (typical purchasers of BMW3's, Audi A4's, Alfas).
Looking good EL_DC5. I will post up pic's next weekend as my exhaust and cam cover will be in! Someone should do a DIY on the install as there becoming very popular :thumbsup:
Nice installation pictures mate.
As someone posted b4 that the heat shield cuts into the wiring harness, I have Cut a small rubber hose and auto siliconed it to the edge that rubs,
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/attachm...3&d=1180681812
Cowl top off
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/attachm...2&d=1180681812
looking good, get some pics once done :)
BTW heres a link on how to install ;D
http://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/sh...ad.php?t=26070
gruppem installed
http://users.tpg.com.au/mikul_ha/gruppem.JPG
i will get back to you all on the comparison between the gruppem and injen. :)
that red hose is a bloody distraction... nice intake though! has a sharp sound at the crossover too
very nice, u do know instead of making the intake look funny with the rubber thing to stop the bonnet hitting it, put the rubber sticky thingo on the bonnet like me :D
LOL my intake squeaks, i don't think it's meant to be really tight where the air box and filter clamp.
and HOYA the legend is sending me a new cowl top which he will checks it's quality personally.
cool!
i think im gna remove mine and use the stock afteer doing the customisation which they done here :
http://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/sh...ad.php?t=26070
its goe the same design dont see what the difference will be?
either way im gna use the stock with abit of custom work.. looks better and fits %100 then i may paint that whole arear to same clour as my car ;S
this is when i have time LOL
Just get a fiberglass mould done. so u keep you original,
I think i know why ppl are using more fuel with the GruppeM. I use to rev to 3000 and shift in ordinary driving now i like to hear it Rev to 4000, all unintentional but it sounds so good to rev to 4000. it sounds so right to shit at 4k.
yeh, make sure u reset your ECU too..
btw do u all get a rattle noise from 5th to 6th on 2nd and 3rd gear?
nah nah it aint the intake system, i hear it near the oil filter/headers or in engine, it rattles..
maybe its the oil im using i have nfi!
ah! i thought that was the case, i think there abit loose
and yeh complete stock atm :(
i guess i wont worry to much, :D
i resetted my ECU, which is first time i did this after i put the intake! goddam theres a big difference
i feel better accel, can feel the vtec way more, testing out the k's on the tank atm see if get more ;D
It could be the GruppeM causing the rattle.
nah not the intake, im sure it aint, the intake is rubbered everywhere needed and i definately only here it from 5th-6th near the header area as its pretty close to the driver.. its like a bolt is in the engine bouncing around..
errr aaronng! your making me think twice! im gna open it up this weekend now! and double check! hahahaha
hahahahah thats gna take awhile i got so many sets and i use all of them and there all just thrown into a like a container, it aint gna kill me to check inside so i think thats the best thing to do and check the header shield aswell.
thanks :D
when i installed my intake i forgot to plug a sendor I think the Nox sensor that is next to the heat shield, I took it for a drive and my car was running like shit and wouldnt vtec, so i found it and pluged it back in, dont even know why i unpluged it wasnt in the way, one of those stupid thing you do!. I was getting Engine light and stuff, so i plugged it and took the engine fuse out and it was all sweet
Where is the best place to get some of that cushion tape. Im kinda broke so im looking for the cheapest place. ******s Are broke these days.
Bunnings hardware had it cheap, lots of different sizes/thickness too :thumbsup:
try clark rubber as well ;D
i found some kool things there
Thanks Guys
Recon we can use the parts from the new jdm ctr
"Based on the domestic market four-door Civic, this Type-R has a development of the Integra Type-R's K20A 2-litre i-VTEC engine with 222bhp (5bhp up on the also Japan-only Integra DC5) and 159lb ft – produced nearly 1000rpm lower in the rev-range. That’s well up on the 198bhp and 142lb ft of the official UK-market Type-R. Honda in Japan claims it will hit sixty in under 6 seconds and, thanks to aerodynamic improvements, run on to over 150mph.
However, there's more to it than straight-line speed; the Civic Type-R four-door has been developed on the Tsukuba, Suzuka and Nürburgring racetracks. The spec is astounding: a helical limited-slip diff; a lighter, 50 per cent more rigid bodyshell; 320mm-diameter Brembo brakes; shorter ratios for the first three gears and slightly longer ratios for gears four-six; and lower, stiffer suspension – crucially it has double-wishbone rear suspension rather than the UK car’s cheaper and less precise torsion beam set-up. The Japanese spec also includes super-sticky 225/40 R18 Bridgestone RE070 rubber, a tyre that was first seen on the NSX-R.
The results sound startling – the Civic is 4 seconds quicker around Suzuka than the Integra Type-R, and at Tsukuba it gets to within a second of a standard NSX. "
Which parts do you have in mind?
the dc5r doesnt have torsen, my knowledge is that its a basic lsd. wouldnt mind a torsen ;)
DC5R is torsen.
What is your definition of a basic LSD?
There are clutch-operated LSDs with 1way, 1.5way and 2way torque transfer, viscous-coupling LSDs and gear-operated LSDs (which are the torsen/quaife).
I know for sure that the DC5R doesn't have a clutch-operated LSD. :)