View Full Version : Dedicated DA9 Q & A thread
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espionage85
25-03-2011, 10:01 PM
pm me offers on what your after, if im happy with prices and dont loose to much i might do it
espionage85
25-03-2011, 10:53 PM
ok heres what i have ready to go into my car
b20/b16 vtec motor (new gaskets top to bottom, timing belt, seals, waterpump, everything changed) 30000kms put on it my eg civic..
power will not be revealed ;)
it did run mid 13's 3/3 tho in my eg civic with full street trim n street tyres..
custom cable gearbox with ek9 and dc2r internals with 4.7 final drive (not installed yet)
Ry-wire mil spec harness convert from obd0 - obd1 (still waiting on delivery from the states)
excedy sports organic clutch i think it is..
lightened flywheel
dc2r 5 stud brake upgrade (not installed yet)
reconditioned steering rack, converted to NON P/S
dc2r rear LCA's x2 (not installed yet)
buddyclub racing spec exhaust system from dc2r, customised to fit da9.. (tip comes out on the right side)
ITR japspec steering wheel (non airbag)
ITR shift boot (brand new)
ITR gear knob
DA9 cluster with DA6 rev meter installed for vtec
car has been in the workshop since november 2010 motor and box still hasnt been installed as im waiting for the harness from the states...
thats all i can really think of right now,
dont wanna get rid of it, and will not part out unless enough people are interested and the prices are right, i really cant afford to loose money on this thing
if it was my choice or if i can talk my parents out of it i will complete this project and track it..
future plans are dc2r tein monoflex,
camber arms, etc
have a full energy bush set that i wanna install also..
for the people that have seen the car, yes i know its ugly as shit from the outside lmao, but it will stay like that as i only wanted immac interior n big ball (so when people laugh, i can blow them =) lol
pm me with offers and i will think about it over the next month
mooshie
25-03-2011, 11:25 PM
Does the gearbox have an LSD and new synchros? Was the gearset new or second hand?
espionage85
25-03-2011, 11:32 PM
gearbox has LSD
new synchros n bearings
gearsets were 2nd hand but comes with warranty
ACTI0NMAN-1
28-03-2011, 08:19 PM
broke the ball joint clip in my rear view mirror again, anyone know how to take apart the mirror to get to the ball joint clip inside?
Or if someone has a parts car i would be interested in a replacement.
DA9-47
28-03-2011, 09:46 PM
hey mate, take a photo of the part you want and ill check, i think i know what your talking about and if so i think i have one
stevo716
28-03-2011, 10:01 PM
u also got the little rubber thing that stabalizes the mirror?
my sub shakes the shit out of it lol
DA9-47
29-03-2011, 04:52 AM
u also got the little rubber thing that stabalizes the mirror?
my sub shakes the shit out of it lol
Do you mean the light cream cover that goes on the outside of the mirror?? i think i have 1 , not sure will check and take pics,
I tried to start a sell thread but it wont let me ,said im not allowed :thumbdwn: , so just so you all no i have a non rolling red DA9 shell at home(would require a set of wheels to move car) that i was using as a parts car but is now ready to move on, has no engine,has an auto tranny and a few bits and pieces from the interior and engine bay. it has 2 good doors, boot is fine , black painted hood, (no rust other than the rear left quarter, that i could see from quick inspection) , it will have a spare sunroof after i fix mine, i have side mirrors, there will be a spare dash, i have stock extractors, stock suspension on car, stock steering wheel, etc etc
so if you need a part, PM me as i could help out.............
if i was able to start a thread i would post heaps of pics up,
willing to part out , or sell as a whole...... :D:wave:
stevo716
29-03-2011, 11:29 AM
nah the rubber thing it presses in against the mirror stem and the windshield
mooshie
29-03-2011, 10:54 PM
DA9-47, what colour is the interior on your parts car? I am after the drivers footwell fuse box cover if you have a grey one...
DA9-47
30-03-2011, 10:31 AM
DA9-47, what colour is the interior on your parts car? I am after the drivers footwell fuse box cover if you have a grey one...
hey mate, i got that dull blue colour interior , and some bits (minimal as im putting the black interior in mine, but wont need it all) in black, i got red external pannels, steering collem (spell check lol) brake master cylender n stuff.......
cheers
mooshie
30-03-2011, 06:17 PM
strange that I cant seem to find anyone wrecking a teg with grey interior!? everyone has palmy blue or black (including mine)
i have a good interior in my DA9, just missing that fuse box cover, and I am not mad keen on swapping the interior out of the red car.
on another note, finished rebuilding my P/S pump today, finally no more messiness on the passenger side of the engine bay!
I suppose I really should have taken pics and done a write up, but that was a P72 pump. I do have a PR3 pump all in pieces that I could put back together with new seals if anyone is interested?
DA9-47
30-03-2011, 08:32 PM
Ahaha dude I don't think I've seen many grey interior da's !! None I think actually lol, nice work wiv ur p/s pump, start taking pics from now on then so we can c ur build man,
espionage85
30-03-2011, 09:36 PM
strange that I cant seem to find anyone wrecking a teg with grey interior!? everyone has palmy blue or black (including mine)
i have a good interior in my DA9, just missing that fuse box cover, and I am not mad keen on swapping the interior out of the red car.
on another note, finished rebuilding my P/S pump today, finally no more messiness on the passenger side of the engine bay!
I suppose I really should have taken pics and done a write up, but that was a P72 pump. I do have a PR3 pump all in pieces that I could put back together with new seals if anyone is interested?
i mustve missed a chapter here lol.
what did you do with your p/s pump?
gumbs
31-03-2011, 09:04 AM
Ahaha dude I don't think I've seen many grey interior da's !! None I think actually lol, nice work wiv ur p/s pump, start taking pics from now on then so we can c ur build man,
There's plenty of grey ones out there, some red integra's had grey interiors and basically all maroon ones did as well.
Rayle
31-03-2011, 09:15 PM
Anyone got a spare distributor they can lend/sell me? Need to see if the new one I got from distributor king is stuffed, or whether something else is preventing my car from starting...
mooshie
31-03-2011, 09:32 PM
i mustve missed a chapter here lol.
what did you do with your p/s pump?
A few pages back I posted pics of some other stuff I was doing under the engine bay and commented on my leaking power steering pump which was making the underside of the car quite messy.
Was going through a very small amount maybe 50ml every 10000km.
I just changed out all the seals, left the bearing as it was all good, really simple task in the end and the seals only cost about 20 bucks from honda.
BTW, Rayle, I have a concerto distributor that was on the red car and working although only one of the 3 bolts lines up... If you get desperate .
espionage85
31-03-2011, 10:19 PM
ahhh ok, good job..
i thought you were doing some sort of tuck with all the lines hidden lol..
i just got rid of my p/s, and reconditioned the rack to non p/s..
hopefully it goes good and isnt gon be to hard to drive lol
Bludger
31-03-2011, 11:10 PM
strange that I cant seem to find anyone wrecking a teg with grey interior!? everyone has palmy blue or black (including mine)
i have a good interior in my DA9, just missing that fuse box cover, and I am not mad keen on swapping the interior out of the red car.
on another note, finished rebuilding my P/S pump today, finally no more messiness on the passenger side of the engine bay!
I suppose I really should have taken pics and done a write up, but that was a P72 pump. I do have a PR3 pump all in pieces that I could put back together with new seals if anyone is interested?
I would love details please. mine is leaking like a mofo after the HG change
mooshie
01-04-2011, 06:43 PM
it is really easy, if you start pulling it apart you can tell what goes back where. If you have a shop manual for a DC2/4 the power steering section starts on about page 628.
Seals that you will need listed below although there are a couple of the smaller ones that you can find in any o-ring multi pack (i used a couple)
11 91249-P02-003 (http://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/oem/acura%7Eseal%7Epower%7Esteering%7Epump%7E91249-P02-003.html) SEAL, POWER STEERING PUMP
12 91317-P02-003 (http://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/oem/acura%7Eo%7Ering%7E5%7E8x1%7E9%7Enok%7E91317-P02-003.html) O-RING (5.8X1.9) (NOK)
13 91345-PY3-000 (http://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/oem/acura%7Eo%7Ering%7E13%7E0x1%7E9%7E91345-PY3-000.html) O-RING (13.0X1.9)
14 91346-PY3-000 (http://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/oem/acura%7Eo%7Ering%7E22%7E1x1%7E9%7E91346-PY3-000.html) O-RING (22.1X1.9)
15 91347-PY3-000 (http://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/oem/acura%7Eo%7Ering%7E16%7E8x1%7E9%7E91347-PY3-000.html) O-RING (16.8X1.9)
16 91348-PY3-000 (http://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/oem/acura%7Eo%7Ering%7E54%7E0x1%7E9%7E91348-PY3-000.html) O-RING (54.0X1.9)
17 91349-PY3-000 (http://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/oem/acura%7Eo%7Ering%7E68%7E5x1%7E9%7E91349-PY3-000.html) O-RING (68.5X1.9)
just make sure you torque the 6mm bolts to 11nm and the 8mm bolts to about 22, pully bolt is reverse thread and torques to about 64nm. I used a screwdriver wedged in one of the holes of the pully to hold it still while using the spanner on the nut. I did break 2 of the 6mm bolts but luckily got them out again before I decided to go and purchase a 1/4in torque wrench cos my big one cant go down to such low numbers.
Bludger
01-04-2011, 08:28 PM
sheizzz, buying a 1/4 torque wrench is just overkill man. so much outlay for something not going to be used much.will the system bleed itself of all the bubbles after you put it back together?
mooshie
01-04-2011, 11:13 PM
Meh, only cost $75 and I will use it again, always breaking small bolts...
System bleeds itself, but I would recommend having someone on hand to add more fluid to the resevoir while you start the car.
Just turn lock to lock a few times and all the air comes out
mooshie
02-04-2011, 11:33 AM
Oh, there is also another O-ring that goes on the high pressure hose from the top of the pump it is not listed in any schematics I have found so far so no idea on the part number. I *think* I used a 9mmx1.9mm O-ring from my generic pack which had to stretch a tiny bit but got on there and should seal nicely.
Just to remind everybody, this is for a P72 pump from a B18C NOT for a PR3 DA9 pump which is completely different in design.
vuonguz
02-04-2011, 12:48 PM
hey guys are we able to go 16x8 with 0 offset on our da9s?
DA9-47
02-04-2011, 12:59 PM
I need to make a Custom carpet for rear of my da9 with rear seat removed and leaving rear interior pannels on, just want carpet to go from were the carpet stops under the front of the back seats all the way to the rear( with a door cut out of the carpet over the fuel pump), will have a custom boot floor and carpet will have to go over the boot floor, Ive got the black carpet so just wanted to know were u guys would recomend getting the extra black carpet needed to match the rest?
All ideas are appriciated
cheers
DA9-47
02-04-2011, 01:21 PM
Also , I don't like the sunroof, but I don't want to bog it, is there an alternative to the electric sunroof? Anyone done a custom? What I'm thinking is a manually opened and closed sunroof, should take a poo load of weight off if done properly, just don't know if it's possible , idea's ?
Cheers
espionage85
02-04-2011, 02:07 PM
hey guys are we able to go 16x8 with 0 offset on our da9s?
im running 15x8 0 offset, have camber arms in the rear.
i think im running neg 4.5 - 5.5 degrees in the rear..
front is natural camber..
i think 16s would be alot better though, 15 make the car sit way to low on the ground..
i sometimes hit lil reflectors on the lines of the road with my resinator when i sometimes switch lanes
its annoying lol..
mooshie
02-04-2011, 05:27 PM
best way to get rid of your sunroof-
http://forums.g2ic.com/showthread.php?200244-Carbon-Fiber-Roof-Cap-Sunroof-filler-Sunroof-Version-DA-Interest-thread
vuonguz
02-04-2011, 05:28 PM
thanks man good info on that yeah planning to go 16x7 xxr 513,
kikxz
05-04-2011, 05:14 PM
well 16x8 with 36 offset is running fine with no scrubbing or anything... 0 offest youll need as prev said camber arms stiff suspension and prob stretchies ..... your fronts will be a squeeze i reckon massive camber tho :D itll look wicked tho
also what happend to the DA-crew website its full of ad bots?
A-man
05-04-2011, 06:36 PM
yeh guys im really busy so if anyone wants to b a moderator fo the forum, let me know id b happy to do that, the forum wasnt getting used much, which is a shame because i have loads of items for sale to.
as for the wheels i run a 16x7 with +15 offset they sit out by 1 inch front and rear at stock ride height, ive just bout to drop it with some konis, and im hoping it will just nicely tuck into the wheel arch, there is a pic of a white da integra with 15x8 with 0 offset, this thing doesnt drive around much at all because of the stance... looks sick though
and for the sunroof ive seen carbon panels made up and then stuck into place, drops alot of weight out and looks quite neat, i know on g2ic.com you can also buy a cf roof skin, this means u can either cut the roof metal skin off and leave the surports in place, and then glass the panel into place or u can put the skin over the top of the metal roof
DA9-47
05-04-2011, 09:52 PM
Hey dude thanks heaps , really good info, never knew about caps and plugs ,
Cheers
p.s how do u give rep?
stevo716
05-04-2011, 09:57 PM
the star thing in the post, bottom left corner
but if u dont have green rep urself it wontbe useful rep just sayin
u can give it, but it wont score to them
DA9-47
05-04-2011, 10:04 PM
To start with I was thinking if there was a way to remove the most if the sunroof and try to make it a Manual open/close only, but I also really like the replacements fo the glass, wish there was an alternative to c/f tho, they want like near $5oo for the c/f cap!!
I've owned my teg for 3 years and my sunroof has never worked, so I took it out and opened it up too see if anything looked wrong , the 2 gears were worn out and wernt coming into contact with the sunroo motor, called around and was quoted $300 to replace part, so I ended up with a parts car and there was one in it, so I took it out an installed it into my teg and on the first try it opened really fast, but then got stuck and wouldn't close, after ages and after pushing close button heaps it shut while being pushed .
I want to use the bloody thing,
piss me off man
DA9-47
05-04-2011, 10:08 PM
Ahh I see , and I need rep to make a sell thread to yeah?
Tryn to understand how this all works , lol
cheers stevo, mad fake rep for u then !! Lolz
vuonguz
05-04-2011, 10:40 PM
thanks for the tip guys!!! Im gonna look into the rims and research just to make sure that the car will stay legal and not a cop bait!!! :D
stevo716
05-04-2011, 10:50 PM
alrite guys, thanks to aman im now moderating at da crew and i just cleaned it all up so its safe to view again haha so welcome back anytime
DA9-47
05-04-2011, 10:57 PM
Congrats mate, u deserve it , ur a mad da9 guru man !! =)
stevo716
05-04-2011, 11:05 PM
haha cheers man
u on it??
espionage85
05-04-2011, 11:43 PM
wooohoooo, dacrew!!
DA9-47
06-04-2011, 06:35 AM
haha cheers man
u on it??
Is that on here or another site bro?
vuonguz
06-04-2011, 06:42 AM
dacrew here we go again!!!
Spoon DA9R
06-04-2011, 11:15 AM
alrite guys, thanks to aman im now moderating at da crew and i just cleaned it all up so its safe to view again haha so welcome back anytime
good work!
Ashwee
06-04-2011, 06:27 PM
Hey guys, just a quick question, im in the process of putting a b18c2 into my DA. Im using innovative mounts for it. My problem is, the engine is now sitting too far forward, so when I turn the wheels full lock, the driveshaft hits on the fork on the base of the strut. Has anyone had this issue before with these mounts? Im running DC shocks and forks already on the car. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
mooshie
06-04-2011, 11:10 PM
How much is it hitting? The DC strut is thicker and the fork has a narrower (sp?) arch although the difference is small, I suspect this may be causing the issue and not the mounts.
Maybe try putting some standard suspension on ther and see if this solves the problem
ben11
06-04-2011, 11:39 PM
hey mooshie that exhaust is good, maybe a bit louder but does the job so cheers for that! going to regency tomorrow
espionage85
07-04-2011, 01:08 AM
hmmm, weird...
Steve runs dc2 coilovers in his car and doesn't have a problem..
Ashwee
07-04-2011, 04:39 AM
Yeah gonna try stock fronts tomorrow, urgh cant get kyb agx fof DA, gonna have to buy new struts again, this build suuucks! Thanks for your help guys!
stevo716
07-04-2011, 09:30 AM
hmmm, weird...
Steve runs dc2 coilovers in his car and doesn't have a problem..
True story :P
is ur front engine mount bolted up?
if it is ur engine shud be in same position
idk why it wud be sittin forward, even with hasport mounts
Ashwee
07-04-2011, 02:30 PM
Its all bolted in. I think its more to do with the gearbox, it does sit differently. Im running dc2 inner cv's now as well, lots of things have to be changed as part of this swap. Hopefully the da suspension works and ill just have to buy ne front shocks. So if anyone wants a pair of front kyb agx with forks that are about 500km old let me know!
ben11
07-04-2011, 05:37 PM
defected again for not having the right engineers report/certificate for coilovers :( i hate transport sa. anyone know how to get around this problem other then spending 600+ on real engineers cert (no thanks) or going back to stock (nooooo)
mooshie
07-04-2011, 10:50 PM
Glad the exhaust could help you out. Did you finish up putting a flange on there or just welding straight up?
Could have told you coilovers will not get through regency and unfortunately there is no way around it other than welding a stop on there so they can't go below legal height.
you could always just swap in the standard suspension to go over the pits then swap it out again
mooshie
07-04-2011, 10:55 PM
Ash, do you have the right mount for the year? I believe gearbox mount designs changed slightly with the facelift and later boxes.
Can you post a photo of exactly where it is rubbing? I am struggling to see how it could actually be touching the bottom of the strut.
Possibly you could get longer bolts and shim the mount above the gearbox to sit it lower?
ben11
07-04-2011, 11:26 PM
Glad the exhaust could help you out. Did you finish up putting a flange on there or just welding straight up?
Could have told you coilovers will not get through regency and unfortunately there is no way around it other than welding a stop on there so they can't go below legal height.
you could always just swap in the standard suspension to go over the pits then swap it out again
got the shop to weld it since i don't have the tools/time/knowledge. but thanks again i really appreciate it, owe you one.
i would just swap them out but again i don't have enough time a the moment. Is there another way to make them unadjustable which is more undo-able haha? Is it a difficult job to replace the stock suspension? i have never done it. school holidays in a week so i will have time then to give it a shot, keen to learn!
stevo716
08-04-2011, 09:11 AM
its a pretty easy job man to replace sussy,
for the front The top 2 14mm nuts on the strut (just loosen for now)
then at bottom of the fork theres a big bolt 17mm, Bolt and nut, take that off(prob have to hammer out a lil)
then the 14mm bolt that goes through the fork take that off, drop the fork off
idk if u brake lines are still connected cuz of the coil overs, but disconnect them first if they are.
then just completely remove both nuts at top, coilover is now out
for back
same 2 14mm bolts, at top, there under the rear speakers, so i remove the grill, the speaker then use a long extention to get to em. just loosen
take off bolt for rear sway(this allows lca to move) 12mm i believe
then where the lca connects to the hub, remove that bolt eh 14mm or 17mm dont remember
putt that out push lca down, then remove top 14mm bolts completely and it shud drop
to install again ull need to jack underneath the lca to help u push it up, its a lil lame to adjust holes but ull get there
enjoy :)
mooshie
08-04-2011, 10:11 PM
Great info there from Stevo, as said its really easy. If you don't still have stockies you can borrow the struts from the red car if you want although I would need them back.
espionage85
09-04-2011, 12:42 AM
coilovers illegal in your state???
ive never heard of anyone getting hassled for coilovers,
for ride height yes, but not for adjustable coilovers...
Rayle
09-04-2011, 02:35 AM
You should be able to remove the top nuts on the rear struts without removing the speakers, when I did it I just removed those little access panels and there was enough room to easily get a wrench in there. Makes things a little easier!
Btw, thanks for letting me know about your spare distributor mooshie. I'm contacting the seller to see if I can get it exchanged for a new one, I swapped the ICM to the one from the blown distributor and the code 15 disappeared, maybe both ICMs are busted...
ben11
09-04-2011, 03:10 PM
greatly appreciated stevo!
and yes espionage they are illegal unless you have an engineers cert approving them. Apparently anything which affects your suspension travel needs an engineers cert!? maybe this guy was making up some bs i dont know
DA9-47
09-04-2011, 04:44 PM
Hi guys
Will a b series carbon fiber spark plug cover fit a B18A1 by any chance>>??
cheers
stevo716
09-04-2011, 05:10 PM
Hi guys
Will a b series carbon fiber spark plug cover fit a B18A1 by any chance>>??
cheers
nah it wont man, its meant for the vtec rocker covers, with the spark plug covers
DA9-47
09-04-2011, 07:56 PM
nah it wont man, its meant for the vtec rocker covers, with the spark plug covers
Thought so cheers anyway stevo, it would look mad tho,
Lol wishfull thinking true that,
DA9-47
09-04-2011, 07:59 PM
Looking at a guys skunk2 springs, shocks an sleeves front and back for da9 , anyone got anything to say about this setup? Good ? Bad?
Cheers guys
stevo716
09-04-2011, 08:02 PM
what shcoks
i used to run skunk2 on stock shocks good lows, alrite handling
DA9-47
09-04-2011, 08:07 PM
Not sure wat shocks yet, haven't even seen a pic yet, he just said he has the skunk2 sports shocks, skunk2 spings and skunk2 sleeves, said that it's coilovers , I don't know much about sussy, so thought I'd ask u .
Any that I should be weary of?
Thanks stevo , ura ledge
stevo716
09-04-2011, 08:17 PM
eh nah sounds alrite, sleeves meanin its height adjustable
so in theory coilovers, only thing its prob not damper adjustable meaning cud be a shit ride
rele depends on cost
SL33K
09-04-2011, 08:33 PM
DA9-47 there are spark plug covers available that people have made for the b18a1 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/b18a-b20-spark-plug-wire-cover-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem45f9d56e42QQitemZ30054 4257602QQptZRaceQ5fCarQ5fParts
DA9-47
09-04-2011, 08:37 PM
so does that mean it will be able to raise and lower the cars sussy, but if i raise it it will be bouncy and if i lower it it will be really stiff?
were as coilovers have a a good feel overall??
correct me if im a tard =)
SL33K
09-04-2011, 08:39 PM
There are these carbon fibre ones available aswell http://www.isportcomposites.com/LS-Spark-Plug-Cover-CLSSPC.htm
DA9-47
09-04-2011, 08:40 PM
DA9-47 there are spark plug covers available that people have made for the b18a1 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/b18a-b20-spark-plug-wire-cover-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem45f9d56e42QQitemZ30054 4257602QQptZRaceQ5fCarQ5fParts
DDUUUUUUDDEEEEEE, you are amazing lolz,
nah man i didnt think it would work, looks micky , maybe another colour, sand back writing on it but farrrrk, your a champ for looking for that for me ,
,just so you know
i did look around and couldn't find anything .
cheers bro
stevo716
09-04-2011, 08:40 PM
wow sleek where u been man, did u have the service manual still?
i converted my da6 to manual btw
a coilover is rele just a sleeved spring over a shock
height adjustament is done but the sleeve part u screw it up or down for height
damper adjustment is usaully on top of a shock, with somethin u can turn like a knob, the gas pressurises and stuff makin it stiffer or soft
stevo716
09-04-2011, 08:41 PM
wud that work on our rocker covers? cuz thats a b18b one pictured
DA9-47
09-04-2011, 08:46 PM
wow sleek where u been man, did u have the service manual still?
i converted my da6 to manual btw
a coilover is rele just a sleeved spring over a shock
height adjustament is done but the sleeve part u screw it up or down for height
damper adjustment is usaully on top of a shock, with somethin u can turn like a knob, the gas pressurises and stuff makin it stiffer or soft
AHHHH i see , my mate was trying to explain this to me , i just couldn't understand him on 5 hours sleep, but you managed well stevo!!!!
so would you say you would mush rather the damper adjustable coilover's compared to the sleeve height adjustable ones im looking at ? big diff in price id assume , but quality would be worth eating rice till Christmas!?!
+1 FAKE REP FOR YOU
( cant give real rep till i get rep or sumfin)
DA9-47
09-04-2011, 08:47 PM
wud that work on our rocker covers? cuz thats a b18b one pictured
why would you be interested??
group buy lolz??
stevo716
09-04-2011, 09:36 PM
AHHHH i see , my mate was trying to explain this to me , i just couldn't understand him on 5 hours sleep, but you managed well stevo!!!!
so would you say you would mush rather the damper adjustable coilover's compared to the sleeve height adjustable ones im looking at ? big diff in price id assume , but quality would be worth eating rice till Christmas!?!
+1 FAKE REP FOR YOU
( cant give real rep till i get rep or sumfin)
get one with both haha, my old set up was koni with eibachs was damper adjustable but not height i cud of got ground control sleeves for it , but i found teins at an offer i cudnt refuse lol
btw for wat i see u got green rep, menain u can give legit rep :P
stevo716
09-04-2011, 09:36 PM
why would you be interested??
group buy lolz??
haha maybe, i was mostly just savin u from buyin somethin that might not fit, cuz out rocker covers are slightly diff, but im pretty srue a b18b rocker fits on ours, if u wanna try that
mooshie
10-04-2011, 08:22 AM
B18B/B20 rocker cover will fit the B18A as the valve tran dimensions and head are the same and a dime a dozen as they come off the CR-V as well as Integras.
Then you can repaint and make it look all nice with a carbon insert as well.... Just get new seals though as I wouldn't trust just putting sealant on your old ones. There are heaps of instructions out there including one on this site.
SL33K
10-04-2011, 12:08 PM
wow sleek where u been man, did u have the service manual still?
i converted my da6 to manual btw
a coilover is rele just a sleeved spring over a shock
height adjustament is done but the sleeve part u screw it up or down for height
damper adjustment is usaully on top of a shock, with somethin u can turn like a knob, the gas pressurises and stuff makin it stiffer or soft
I've been around lol just been really busy.
I've still got the service manual just been having trouble getting the pages flat while scanning it, there's about 100 pages to scan lol. Will try and get it done asap.
Well done on the manual conversion did you have any trouble?
I'm picking up a oem lip kit for my da6 soon, been looking for one for ages.
SL33K
10-04-2011, 12:20 PM
wud that work on our rocker covers? cuz thats a b18b one pictured
Just realized that's for a b18b so it wouldn't fit a b18a. Sorry for the confusion guys.
DA9-47
10-04-2011, 12:50 PM
Bring me up just to tear me down!! Lolz
I can live without it but it would look good
stevo716
10-04-2011, 01:28 PM
Bring me up just to tear me down!! Lolz
I can live without it but it would look good
if u rele want get a b18b cover, id do that but b18a cover is already painted and cut to show cam gears
as mooshie said b18b/b20 cover shud fit straight on,
mooshie
11-04-2011, 08:12 PM
ok, question for all the DA junkies- in this thread, http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?146214-FOR-SALE-Rare-89-JDM-Integra-B16A-Low-K-s!
look at the engine bay shot. I am trying to figure out what the reservoir at the rear of the bay is for on the passenger side, anybody got suggestions?
free bump for the seller too I suppose! very clean and tidy car.
SL33K
11-04-2011, 08:15 PM
ok, question for all the DA junkies- in this thread, http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?146214-FOR-SALE-Rare-89-JDM-Integra-B16A-Low-K-s!
look at the engine bay shot. I am trying to figure out what the reservoir at the rear of the bay is for on the passenger side, anybody got suggestions?
free bump for the seller too I suppose! very clean and tidy car.
That's the abs unit I have the same in my da6
mooshie
11-04-2011, 08:23 PM
Yeah i just figured it out... damn you are quick!
have you ever really tested the ABS out? I read on G2IC all the time that they are notorious for failing and that they just remove them when they start to have issues as they are very expensive to repair. Would love to see how hard it is to install though, I would think it would be a real pain.
SL33K
11-04-2011, 08:39 PM
lol msn messenger lets me know when I get a new email telling me there's a new post in this thread.
I have my abs disconnected because it makes a weird sound continuously, don't think it works so I havn't tried using it. I want to remove it eventually.
stevo716
11-04-2011, 09:40 PM
ooooo is that wat it is, ive been wonderin too, cuz i dont have it :P
91type-r
13-04-2011, 07:56 PM
Hey all, I am having some drama with my da9, I am getting an occasional knocking noise sometimes when I get on the power in a low gear but not all the time and a groaning sound when I brake firmly ( this does not seem to happen when I put the car in neutral but it still can happen when the clutch is in.) My car is lowered on coilovers and I have found that my left inner rack end is worn and has some movement. Is this likely to be the cause or should i be looking at the driveshafts or wheel bearing on the left hand side.
I have tried to search for this numerous times but don't get anything that seems close.
I am also trying to find somewhere online to buy a steering rack end kit that includes inner and outer tie rods. any help would be much appreciated.
Pezman
17-04-2011, 08:35 PM
im getting a similar problem, but the knocking noise continues even when i have it in neutral. Then when i push the clutch in it stops. any ideas on what is wrong?
stevo716
17-04-2011, 09:19 PM
not sure bout 91type-r's problem
but pezman urs sound like clutch, theres springs on the clutch disk, dampenings to stop knockin they mite be worn out or somethin like that
when u press clutch in, it stops spinnin it, put in neutral its still connected to engine so will spin
anyway thats my theory
Pezman
18-04-2011, 08:35 PM
i hope it isnt my clutch, its only done just under 10,000km's. i was thinking my bearings could be on the way out? but i dunno
stevo716
18-04-2011, 11:25 PM
i hope it isnt my clutch, its only done just under 10,000km's. i was thinking my bearings could be on the way out? but i dunno
did u change the thrust bearing? when the clutch was changed?
A-man
21-04-2011, 09:21 PM
yeh what he said, bout the clutch
otherwise it could b a inner guard scrubbing on something,
as for 91 type r, could be a cv joint, could be wheel bearing,
vuonguz
24-04-2011, 05:34 PM
the height of my mrs car b4 and the wheels we got with no tyres...
http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/6972/dsc0070rn.jpg
http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/4462/dsc0074nq.jpg
the new ride height with steves koni shocks & eibach springs.... so LOWERED looks neat!!!
http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/5317/dsc0079aw.jpg
http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/3221/dsc0087at.jpg
citran
24-04-2011, 11:42 PM
My question should be a good one for ppl who like toughies :P
Basically car was working perfectly up till few months ago when lost all compression, piston rings n such, so got 2nd hand engine block to fix then after it was put in it had issues with fluctuating idling which was put down to the IACV and a bad O2 sensor.
After those were done it was good for a few days but then had the engine light come on once for no reason, mechanic couldnt figure out reason either as it went off moments b4 they came to check it out :S engine light finally came back on days later just after starting and driving for less than minute where it chugged slightly then as soon as pulled over it stalled and wouldnt start for few minutes.
Got it to mechanics place and they reckon ecu has gone into limp mode, tried replacing the ecu to no avail and that cured it for a time but replacement ecu went back into limp mode after a 5km run, and now want to try replacing the dizzy. B4 the compression was lost at start there was no trouble like this at all with car so am pretty sure most parts, except for ones proven to suck since then, are still good to my knowledge.
Any ideas? Is all of the info I can think of atm but can get more if needed 4 ppl as has been so long getting through all stupid crap with car lately
DA9-47
25-04-2011, 12:39 AM
My question should be a good one for ppl who like toughies :P
Basically car was working perfectly up till few months ago when lost all compression, piston rings n such, so got 2nd hand engine block to fix then after it was put in it had issues with fluctuating idling which was put down to the IACV and a bad O2 sensor.
After those were done it was good for a few days but then had the engine light come on once for no reason, mechanic couldnt figure out reason either as it went off moments b4 they came to check it out :S engine light finally came back on days later just after starting and driving for less than minute where it chugged slightly then as soon as pulled over it stalled and wouldnt start for few minutes.
Got it to mechanics place and they reckon ecu has gone into limp mode, tried replacing the ecu to no avail and that cured it for a time but replacement ecu went back into limp mode after a 5km run, and now want to try replacing the dizzy. B4 the compression was lost at start there was no trouble like this at all with car so am pretty sure most parts, except for ones proven to suck since then, are still good to my knowledge.
Any ideas? Is all of the info I can think of atm but can get more if needed 4 ppl as has been so long getting through all stupid crap with car lately
Hey dude, Crap sounds like you been having fun lol
Have you tried to see if error codes are coming up?
New to this stuff too, but in some other posts, people with similar probs were reffered to look up error codes as a diognostic tool.
I did see ECU code listings at http://forums.g2ic.com/tegtips/engine/13.html
look through there teg tips and see if that helps
=)
citran
25-04-2011, 12:52 AM
yeah its been a hell of a time lol
only error codes i could get out of it, and mechanic also, was code 4 which doesnt exist as far as i'm aware :S i know they also tried hooking up a ecu reader to it to check but got nothing either tho i assume it was a very generalised reader as nearest honda dealer is in adelaide 2 hours drive away ugh
DA9-47
25-04-2011, 02:31 AM
yeah its been a hell of a time lol
only error codes i could get out of it, and mechanic also, was code 4 which doesnt exist as far as i'm aware :S i know they also tried hooking up a ecu reader to it to check but got nothing either tho i assume it was a very generalised reader as nearest honda dealer is in adelaide 2 hours drive away ugh
hey mate,
did allitle looking around for ya,
and people are talking about this "code 4" that doesn't come up on the ecu code list on www.g2ic.com/tegtips and naming it as a "CKP code"= Crankshaft position sensor , is your car in tune? have you had any aftermarket parts installed? adjustable cams?
some people said that there dissy was gone, or it was tuned to much retarded/advancement.
so yeah check that out man n c how you go aye
DA9-47
25-04-2011, 02:32 AM
http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/5317/dsc0079aw.jpg
http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/3221/dsc0087at.jpg
That lip looks awesome,
nice rims too man!!
citran
25-04-2011, 11:34 AM
hey mate,
did allitle looking around for ya,
and people are talking about this "code 4" that doesn't come up on the ecu code list on www.g2ic.com/tegtips and naming it as a "CKP code"= Crankshaft position sensor , is your car in tune? have you had any aftermarket parts installed? adjustable cams?
some people said that there dissy was gone, or it was tuned to much retarded/advancement.
so yeah check that out man n c how you go aye
Cheers for that :)
Haven't had any aftermarket parts on the car to my knowledge as dealership wasnt able to provide full owner history at time. Mech reckoned that the bearings in the dissy were all stuffed tho so might just try getting a replacement for it first then go from there...anyone know a place to find one cheapish?
stevo716
25-04-2011, 03:28 PM
Does your car actual limit early makin u think its limp mode
or just refuse to accelerate, if refuse to accelerate check your timing, my timing was out i thought it ecu related, it was throwin codes, i changed alot of sensors nothin finally thought ill double check timing, as i had cam gears on it, but was off, so check that :)
citran
25-04-2011, 05:51 PM
Does your car actual limit early makin u think its limp mode
or just refuse to accelerate, if refuse to accelerate check your timing, my timing was out i thought it ecu related, it was throwin codes, i changed alot of sensors nothin finally thought ill double check timing, as i had cam gears on it, but was off, so check that :)
as far as limit goes i never took it past 50, was in middle of town so couldnt do anything past it before getting to mechanics place, but accelerating was perfectly normal from what it felt like however after the replacement ecu was chucked in to test they took it up to 80 in a 5km drive and as soon as it went past 80 car started to chug and engine light came back on till gettin it back to shop.
Timing wise I actually had that redone after the new engine block was put in as old mechanic thought it was cause of fluctuating idle at time which ended up as dirty IACV :S never taking car back there me thinks lol well if can get it back to working order am lucky only live 5 mins walk from work
Spoon DA9R
28-04-2011, 01:49 PM
t
http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/5317/dsc0079aw.jpg
Nice lip! brings back memories
ben11
04-05-2011, 09:55 PM
i have a squeaky sort of rattle coming from the back of the car? i searched and it came up with something to do with the hatchback, but i thought it would be related to the suspension as i just changed back to stock. it was still happening with the aftermarket coilovers but wasnt as obvious. any help appreciated cheers
stevo716
05-05-2011, 12:07 AM
if its wat i had its the hatch striker squeaking, put some electrical tape around the latch not to much or it wont close, but just so it has a coating that stopped my squeaks
espionage85
05-05-2011, 12:51 AM
rear trailing arm bush maybe?
stevo716
05-05-2011, 10:04 AM
rear trailing arm bush maybe?
from my expierience the trailing arm bushes didnt rele make any squeaks, both da's i had did it, and i had almost fixed every single bush in rear of car and it still did it, with modified suspension or not, so when i finally got my 2nd car i researched lil more, turns out its the latch on the hatch, taped it up no squeakies xD
ben11
05-05-2011, 03:38 PM
whats the hatch striker? the rattle comes from the left rear if i hit a bump on the left...same for the right side.
stevo716
05-05-2011, 04:00 PM
if its a rattle prob something else mine used to squeak but just driving nomrally
mooshie
05-05-2011, 09:13 PM
it is probably your rubber seats in the top hats of the standard suspension, they are about 20 years old now and rubber gets hard and squeaks over that time. you could always try putting a tiny bit of a very thin machine oil on there and see if that works. could always put it on other bushings to see if they are the problem too.
only a drop should do the job dont go making a mess.
ben11
05-05-2011, 09:36 PM
could be.. but it started happening with the new suspension on? thanks for the replys anyway
Spoon DA9R
06-05-2011, 01:54 PM
i think he meant it squeaks but sounds like a rattle.
this happens when u change suspension. once u put coilovers u drop ur ride height which has move the sway bars from its normal position where its's clipped onto your chassis.
if u undo the rubber bushes that holds the swaybar to the chassis and grease it up. squeak will go away
basically swaybar is squeaking with the rubber bushing that's holding it.
ben11
06-05-2011, 06:31 PM
oh ok thanks heaps man i'll try that soon.
will 15 x 6 wheels with 55 offset fit on the da9? i am looking for stocky alloys and some are for sale from a BB2 prelude. tyres are 205/50/15
DA9-47
06-05-2011, 06:44 PM
been looking at S/C or turbo my left over B18A1 , basically i read a few threads about turboing or supercharging it,
a guy wrote this in hondaswap:
well, its not the # of hp gained, its when and where the hp is gained.
100 hp from a blower is great, but front wheel drive cars like ours benefit from maxemizing their strenghts, and dealing with loads of low end power and torque is not one of them.
"If you decided to turbo your car and gained lets say 90hp (just to prove my point) the power wouldnt come right away (turbo lag) but it would be available from 3krpms to your redline (unlike a blower which becomes less effective as more stress is put on the crank pulley).
One thing to consider with a frontwheel drive car is the issue of traction. If you cant get traction you arent going to go anywhere so to speak, and in this case, a turbo would be your friend, because you will be able to hook up nice off the line and then your power will kick in.
hope that helps"
does this sum up the diff between the 2? lolz
thanking you guys
menacer
06-05-2011, 07:48 PM
his point are true. either way it gonna be well worth your while looking at increasing traction. gaining extra horsepower anywhere is useless unless you can put the power to the ground. a good example of this is the ability of all wheel drive vehicles to compete with far more 'powerful' cars. it doesn't so much matter how much power you can make but wat you can do with it. however to get back to the point for the ba18 which is already quite strong in the low rpm area i would go with the turbo option... betta on fuel too..
DA9-47
06-05-2011, 08:42 PM
his point are true. either way it gonna be well worth your while looking at increasing traction. gaining extra horsepower anywhere is useless unless you can put the power to the ground. a good example of this is the ability of all wheel drive vehicles to compete with far more 'powerful' cars. it doesn't so much matter how much power you can make but wat you can do with it. however to get back to the point for the ba18 which is already quite strong in the low rpm area i would go with the turbo option... betta on fuel too..
Thanx man,
Was thinking that a turbo would be better,
was just thinking that a S/C would be different, but if its not going to do much for me , and cost 2x as much then turbo would be the better option.
thanks again
ben11
07-05-2011, 03:41 PM
please anyone quickly?!!? will 15 x 6 wheels with 55 offset fit on the da??
DA9-47
08-05-2011, 08:51 AM
I Got Skunk2 I/M and T/B mounted on engine, just got a few questions plzz:
#1 some people are saying i will need to change fuel rail in order for everything to fit, is this true or can i just use stock b18a rail.
from what i can see the stock I/M has bolts monted to it and the rail slides over , securing with 3 bolts, skunk2's i/m has 3 holes for bolts to go into, was hoping i could just get bolts to fit, and smaller spacers, and the FRV wont fit, bottom pipe hits the I/M .............can i just get aftermarket one ?
#2 some things look like they are not needed any more, just wondering in the pic i attached bellow do i need any of these parts?
or just plug holes?
http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z456/DA9-47/Mobile%20Uploads/OZZ.jpg parts off
http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z456/DA9-47/Mobile%20Uploads/zzzz.jpg original locations
edit: #2 sits on the I/M right under the T/B..... under the bit wer the 2 pipes go thru the bottom of the T/B
stevo716
08-05-2011, 11:13 AM
U can use stock fuel rail thats fine, FRV?, Do u mean ur Fuel Pressrure Regulator , the thing to the right of the rail with two hoses?, if so i just turned it upside down and it fit perfectly,
u can get rid of all those parts, 1 and 3 are cold idlers, u just got hold ur revs up a bit when ur startin ur car, or itll stall
2 is a warmer, remove it and just bypass it, so the hose coming from the IACV goes straight to the head
also noticed in pic 70mm throttle body? wow u planning on turboing? also im assuming u bored the IM out to fit this,cuz from factory there only round 63mm, meaning ur tb wont open
DA9-47
08-05-2011, 01:59 PM
Thanks heaps stevo, thought they were junk now lol, I got new skunk2 I\m an t/b , put them together and the throttle opens to full, did u mean if I use 70 mm on stock I/m? And after a bit of researching I decided I will build and turbo my old motor, after I install newer one I'll have it in my garage so plenty of room to rebuild:)
thanks mate :)
stevo716
08-05-2011, 03:15 PM
ah if it opens thats fine
just measure cuz if u want full benefit itll have to be 70mm too
mooshie
08-05-2011, 06:41 PM
What Stevo is saying is that the opening on the IM needs to be 70mm as well, usually even aftermarket ones don't come that big. Just measure up to check, you might need to get it bored out to match.
70mm is huge for a NA build up, especially without cams etc.
stevo716
08-05-2011, 08:45 PM
ive got a skunk2 intake manifold, and unmodifed its bout 63mm i had to bore out more,
im only gonna run 68mm with cams, 70mm seems alot for NA
espionage85
08-05-2011, 09:56 PM
ive got a pair of sr3 which i wanna throw into my DA,
does anyone know what type or brand of rails there are out there to make this happen?
mooshie
08-05-2011, 09:56 PM
Sorry ben, not exactly a quick response but our cars run approx +40 offset, +55 means that it will sit in further under the guard and you may have issues with the wheel or tyre rubbing suspension or the wheel well.
I would think that it will still fit ok though if you can ask the seller for a quick test fit on the front as this is more likely to be the problem end of the car when turning to full lock.
Could get a spacer too if you are keen on that.
adriano10
08-05-2011, 10:04 PM
Stock B18C2 ina da ? whos done it on here need info gear box part and the ecu =)
DA9-47
08-05-2011, 11:25 PM
Thanks guys, it will need to be bored as i/m is 68mm, so will get that done asap!! Thanks guys,
Will be going cams soon but may need to drive with 70mm t/b & I/m with stock cams, u guys think this could be a problem??
If so and I know it defeats the purpose temporarily , but would ristricting the airflow via intake pipe to make less air come in untill I get cams work?
Thanx for helpn guys, and pointing out I needed to bore out I/M stevo:)
stevo716
08-05-2011, 11:31 PM
nah no need to restrict anythin
its more u wont use the benefit of 70mm without cams and a tune
it shud run fine
DA9-47
08-05-2011, 11:42 PM
Sweet cheers dude!!, I tried to give u rep but said I "had to give everyone esle some first " lol , soz
was hoping it won't be bad cause need to drive it in 3 months lolz
mooshie
09-05-2011, 08:33 PM
Adriano, what info exactly are you after?all depends on budget and what you can do yourself.
For ECU you can just go the standard B18C item with a OBD-1 conversion which just means a few changes to the wiring harness really- http://www.xenocron.com/ecu-conversion-harness-obd0-to-obd1-p-76.html?osCsid=939e00369483edbb0b51cbc4b51934fd makes it easy.
For the gearbox I got a B16 cable box from a CRX as my motor didnt come with a gearbox. this is probably the easiest way to do things but cable boxes are becoming rarer these days so you could always do a hydraulic conversion using a kit from Hasport http://hasport.com/store/index.php/cma.html or Innovative http://www.innovativemounts.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=41000 or a number of other companies, you would also need a hydraulic box mount to do this.
If you are really lazy you can just use your standard box, but the ratios are pretty average for VTEC.
adriano10
11-05-2011, 01:01 AM
Adriano, what info exactly are you after?all depends on budget and what you can do yourself.
For ECU you can just go the standard B18C item with a OBD-1 conversion which just means a few changes to the wiring harness really- http://www.xenocron.com/ecu-conversion-harness-obd0-to-obd1-p-76.html?osCsid=939e00369483edbb0b51cbc4b51934fd makes it easy.
For the gearbox I got a B16 cable box from a CRX as my motor didnt come with a gearbox. this is probably the easiest way to do things but cable boxes are becoming rarer these days so you could always do a hydraulic conversion using a kit from Hasport http://hasport.com/store/index.php/cma.html or Innovative http://www.innovativemounts.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=41000 or a number of other companies, you would also need a hydraulic box mount to do this.
If you are really lazy you can just use your standard box, but the ratios are pretty average for VTEC.
ill probaly get a cable s1 short ratio out of b16 for the b18c2 just wondering if ill be able to use my clutch and lightened flywheel i bought a month ago for the b18 da motor which i havent got around to installing :confused:
stevo716
11-05-2011, 01:19 AM
ill probaly get a cable s1 short ratio out of b16 for the b18c2 just wondering if ill be able to use my clutch and lightened flywheel i bought a month ago for the b18 da motor which i havent got around to installing :confused:
what year da?
if 90-91 yes , if 92-93 ull just need a new clutch disc, bout 100 bucks
menacer
11-05-2011, 07:59 AM
just finished piecing together my home made cai... went to test fit it to decide where mounting bracket would be needed and realised its a quarter inch too big for the throttle body:( anyone know of any companys making a 3 inch to 2 3/4 inch reducer with a 45 degree bend?
adriano10
11-05-2011, 11:59 PM
what year da?
if 90-91 yes , if 92-93 ull just need a new clutch disc, bout 100 bucks
its a b16a s1 short ratio gb for it and the year of my da is 91 :D
stevo716
12-05-2011, 12:28 AM
its a b16a s1 short ratio gb for it and the year of my da is 91 :D
yeh ive got the same gearbox going in, but i had a 92 gearbox, they have different splines, so u only gotta change the clutch disc,
but u dont need to haha
vuonguz
12-05-2011, 06:40 PM
hey guys so i put new rims for my mrs car just the front so far, its 16x7 +40 (205/45/16), i think her original were 15x6.5 or 6 +38 (195/50/15)...
Problem is that shes getting these knocking sounds in one of the new front wheels not sure if its hitting the arms or suspension, it happens when shes just cruising, could it be that its not sitting on right?
ben11
12-05-2011, 09:58 PM
has anyone ever tried to make a da9 type R? maybe of what they think honda would have done if they did do a type R of this chassis. i reckon it would look sweet. championship white, type r drivetrain but with da9 body...
adriano10
12-05-2011, 11:45 PM
Just got refurb cvs put in the right and theres a clicking from that side when at full lock faulty cv? or loose nuts and bolts?
DA9-47
13-05-2011, 12:45 AM
I've Been looking into turbo b18a1, alot of people say that u can slap a small bolt on kit on our motor with stock internals and the motor will be fine, is this correct? If it is true does anyone have an example of this type of setup? Never had a turbo so thought a small kit on stock internal motor while I build a second b18a would be a good way to learn .
Cheers
stevo716
13-05-2011, 01:07 AM
I've Been looking into turbo b18a1, alot of people say that u can slap a small bolt on kit on our motor with stock internals and the motor will be fine, is this correct? If it is true does anyone have an example of this type of setup? Never had a turbo so thought a small kit on stock internal motor while I build a second b18a would be a good way to learn .
Cheers
on about 5psi yeh
menacer
13-05-2011, 07:53 AM
yeah stevos right. any turbo will be fine on stock internals as long as you only run really low boost. however to run a bit more you dont need to replace too much inside. as long as you drop your compression a bit you could run 10 - 15ish without too serious a rebuild. there are lots of ways to do this from getting thicker head gasket to low compression pistons. but being new to hondas myself im not too sure whats readily available for the b18a.
im sure some of these guys would have an idea tho...
mooshie
13-05-2011, 09:54 AM
The A can take 10PSI readily on stock internals as with the other B series 1.6 and 1.8 motors.
There are many examples of this everywhere, including quite a few on this board.
I run 8PSI normally with a switch to 10 if I want to. 8 is enough for a bit of go.
Don't skimp out on the cooling and tune, this is what blows motors.
citran
14-05-2011, 04:40 PM
as far as limit goes i never took it past 50, was in middle of town so couldnt do anything past it before getting to mechanics place, but accelerating was perfectly normal from what it felt like however after the replacement ecu was chucked in to test they took it up to 80 in a 5km drive and as soon as it went past 80 car started to chug and engine light came back on till gettin it back to shop.
Timing wise I actually had that redone after the new engine block was put in as old mechanic thought it was cause of fluctuating idle at time which ended up as dirty IACV :S never taking car back there me thinks lol well if can get it back to working order am lucky only live 5 mins walk from work
well finally got it all fixed and it turned out to be faulty ecu wiring plus distributer and ecu had both partially failed but now fixed :) so glad as i was desperately hoping i didnt have to buy a new car in place of it
DA9-47
14-05-2011, 04:43 PM
The A can take 10PSI readily on stock internals as with the other B series 1.6 and 1.8 motors.
There are many examples of this everywhere, including quite a few on this board.
I run 8PSI normally with a switch to 10 if I want to. 8 is enough for a bit of go.
Don't skimp out on the cooling and tune, this is what blows motors.
First things first ... Convert to obd1 lolz
stocky
14-05-2011, 05:09 PM
First things first ... Convert to obd1 lolz
Why convert to OBD1? Unless you have a tuner who only tunes Hondata, Crome, etc, there are OBD0 tuning options that are quite comprehensive
menacer
14-05-2011, 08:12 PM
im sure this is covered elewhere on the forum so i wont waste everyones time with questions. but can sum one point me in the direction of info on obd0 and 1, like on the differences etc...
stevo716
14-05-2011, 10:11 PM
from wat i was told from someone, obd0 is like comparing intel pentium 1 with a dualcore, obd1 processes fast and just better to use
but i cant say from expierience
DA9-47
14-05-2011, 10:54 PM
Why convert to OBD1? Unless you have a tuner who only tunes Hondata, Crome, etc, there are OBD0 tuning options that are quite comprehensive
So far i have Skunk2 I/M & T/B and Weapon R intake, will be getting cams, and eventually once i get all parts together , turbo it.
Now ive been told you cant boost on obd0, and ive also been told that to get the best out of my Intake setup and future cam setup, converting to Obd1 would help in the tuning department, and to achieve both of these and provide me with a faster ecu at the same time, so i though why not start by converting to obd1 so that once i get my car back on the road i can go get that initial tune so she is a happy DA.
:)
stocky
15-05-2011, 08:05 AM
So far i have Skunk2 I/M & T/B and Weapon R intake, will be getting cams, and eventually once i get all parts together , turbo it.
Now ive been told you cant boost on obd0, and ive also been told that to get the best out of my Intake setup and future cam setup, converting to Obd1 would help in the tuning department, and to achieve both of these and provide me with a faster ecu at the same time, so i though why not start by converting to obd1 so that once i get my car back on the road i can go get that initial tune so she is a happy DA.
:)
I've had my OBD0 Xsi for the best part of 10 years and have done a fair amount of work to it except an OBD1 conversion. I've also boosted the b16a with an obd0 ecu, you just need a rom editor that will support extended maps into the +ve range. With the OBD0 ECU you can connect it to a laptop via usb, tune in real time, upload maps, datalog, launch control, anything really. The problem is, most have no experience tuning OBD0 ECU's here in Australia so if you want someone else to tune it, convert to OBD1, run what the tuner recommends and call it a day. Otherwise, just tune it yourself, and no it won't blow up if you research properly.
DA9-47
15-05-2011, 09:03 AM
Mate you made that sound so good, just yeah I would need a laptop first lol, getting someone else to just do it (tune) would be preffered, trying to do as much as possible but don't wanna overload myself with stuff, befor I started on ozhonda, I would just take my cars to a machanic,
trying to research how to rebuild a b18a and how to turbo afta, wanna look this up heaps as I don't wanna buy all the parts and then get half way through and relise i've done something wrong, or worse think it's good , then drive it and blow engine or something like that. So if a obd1 conversion isn't hard, and it will be tunable by a good tuner, I think I'll try it, would most wreckers have the obd1 ecu and dissy? is there a specific ecu I need to get? Obviously a manual obd1 ecu, p -somthing??? And what car does it come from? So I can check wreckers
stevo716
15-05-2011, 09:55 AM
odb1 was used int he 92-93 da9s
DA9-47
15-05-2011, 04:11 PM
Well I won't find one of them at my local wreckers lol,
will check other Honda wreckers,
cheers stevo
espionage85
15-05-2011, 06:57 PM
i used ry-wire to convert from obd0 - obd1
DA9-47
15-05-2011, 11:00 PM
i used ry-wire to convert from obd0 - obd1
Hey man ,
had a look at Ry-wire.com
http://www.rywire.com/catalog/obd0-mpfi-to-obd1-conversion-package-p-69.html
is this the one you got?
and is it a good price?
and did you buy it online?
cheers
espionage85
16-05-2011, 12:30 AM
Hey man ,
had a look at Ry-wire.com
http://www.rywire.com/catalog/obd0-mpfi-to-obd1-conversion-package-p-69.html
is this the one you got?
and is it a good price?
and did you buy it online?
cheers
thats a very good price!!
but i went a step further
http://www.rywire.com/catalog/milspec-tucked-bseries-harness-p-1.html
thats the one i got,
you order it from them and they make it to your specs,
i wanted aircon, but no power steering so they did that.
well worth the cash i think
menacer
16-05-2011, 06:09 PM
hey guys Skunk2 Intake Manifold for B18a how serious a job to fit to da9 91 model? is it pretty much a straight swap or have i gotta move/modify some things...
stevo716
16-05-2011, 10:14 PM
hey guys Skunk2 Intake Manifold for B18a how serious a job to fit to da9 91 model? is it pretty much a straight swap or have i gotta move/modify some things...
u gotta move modify things its a bit of f**king round
DA9-47
16-05-2011, 10:39 PM
u gotta move modify things its a bit of f**king round
doing this atm , ^^^^^^ what stevo said........
menacer
17-05-2011, 10:44 AM
is it just moving and modifying or am i gonna need to budget for some new/aftermarket bits
DA9-47
17-05-2011, 05:02 PM
is it just moving and modifying or am i gonna need to budget for some new/aftermarket bits
One thing I had pointed out to me , if u get a skunk2 I/M and a t/b as well , the I/M must be the same size as the t/b,
I got a 70mm t/b and my i/m is 68mm, so I have to bore the I/m 2mm, if u can't get sensors off old I/m then u will need new, if ur gasket is fuct, u need new one, so yeah, should be straight forward , skunk2 parts are cheap from USA ATM!!!
menacer
17-05-2011, 05:46 PM
One thing I had pointed out to me , if u get a skunk2 I/M and a t/b as well , the I/M must be the same size as the t/b,
I got a 70mm t/b and my i/m is 68mm, so I have to bore the I/m 2mm, if u can't get sensors off old I/m then u will need new, if ur gasket is fuct, u need new one, so yeah, should be straight forward , skunk2 parts are cheap from USA ATM!!!
my thoughts exactly... does the position of the throttle body in the engine bay change with the new manifold, just wondering if cai will need modifying
stevo716
17-05-2011, 08:02 PM
my thoughts exactly... does the position of the throttle body in the engine bay change with the new manifold, just wondering if cai will need modifying
it doesnt move that much, how solid mounted is ur cai?? u shud be able to move it about a bit
menacer
17-05-2011, 09:34 PM
not mounted yet lol. put it on hold while i decide weather or not to to do tb and manifold... didnt wanna fit it all up just to pull it off again... especially if it needed modifying.
citran
21-05-2011, 09:16 PM
hey guys earlier this morning I was running the car and after a while the engine cel light came on but from what I could tell there was no issues with the engine running at all, sound-wise and checking the engine itself under bonnet while was running with the light on. I turned the car off for a couple of minutes then started it back up perfectly fine and had no light until i attempted to start driving the car on road so I pulled back and turned off again then waited another 10 minutes. This time the car did the same thing except no light after going back onto road and was good for the last 50km home.
menacer
21-05-2011, 09:30 PM
hey just a quick 1 will a short shifter for a dc2 fit a da9???
stevo716
21-05-2011, 09:31 PM
pull the code man, theres diys on this site just search
Rayle
22-05-2011, 03:52 AM
hey guys earlier this morning I was running the car and after a while the engine cel light came on but from what I could tell there was no issues with the engine running at all, sound-wise and checking the engine itself under bonnet while was running with the light on. I turned the car off for a couple of minutes then started it back up perfectly fine and had no light until i attempted to start driving the car on road so I pulled back and turned off again then waited another 10 minutes. This time the car did the same thing except no light after going back onto road and was good for the last 50km home.
Like stevo says, pull the code. Next time you get the CEL, lift up the passenger side carpet to expose the ECU and count the number of blinks (long and short), then check a chart to find out what it is.
stevo716
25-05-2011, 12:52 PM
hey just a quick 1 will a short shifter for a dc2 fit a da9???
ive heard yes, but im not sure, dc2 use those multiple bends but ours a single bend,
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/90-91-92-93-HONDA-INTEGRA-DC-QUICK-SHORT-THROW-SHIFTER-/370438823893?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item563fdfdfd5
thats wat im using, lil to no probs and i shift pretty hard, only prob is we didnt tighten it well first time and i lost a nut atm bottom and makes ur shifter rele sloppy, so use some lock tite.
menacer
25-05-2011, 03:04 PM
cheers
stevo716
26-05-2011, 07:43 PM
anyone wanna do a ls vtec?
mooshie
26-05-2011, 09:43 PM
I have been thinking about it but spending money on different things ATM... if it is still available in a few weeks then I might do a roadtrip to Melbourne for the weekend
stevo716
26-05-2011, 11:31 PM
so far no bites, bring the turbo teg wud love to see that
mooshie
27-05-2011, 08:42 AM
Ha, yeah right! sorry but it would have to be in the Golf- free diesel and it makes it there and halfway back again on one tank of fuel. reckon the teg might get to the border before it ran out!
stevo716
27-05-2011, 10:27 AM
haha i tried :P
91type-r
28-05-2011, 07:12 PM
hey does anyone know where i can get the inner tie rods/ rack ends for our model integra? i've looked online but can only find the early model integra or the dc2 kits. any help would be appreciated.
stevo716
28-05-2011, 07:18 PM
u cna use a dc2 one i replaced mine with one of them
inner? tho
u mean the one that connects to the hub?, with the ball joint?
mooshie
28-05-2011, 11:04 PM
had a Dyno day today and for a bit of fun ran both my working DAs- http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?150423-Dyno-Day-held-by-SAHAU-28th-May
oh and an option for tie rod ends- http://www.prothanesuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MOOG-ES2943R
91type-r
29-05-2011, 12:06 AM
yeah the rack ends that are the shaft with the thread on them. So the dc2 ones are the same then?
stevo716
29-05-2011, 12:24 AM
yeh thats the part i got
mooshie
29-05-2011, 09:13 AM
Sorry, I missed the word 'inner' in your post...
stevo716
29-05-2011, 10:40 AM
oops sry thats not the parts i got,
but if the outer rie rod end connected i dont see why not
i got it from bursons, so if it doesnt work, give it back
91type-r
30-05-2011, 10:57 AM
cheers for your help guys. I found a complete set online, inner and outer tie rods.
Spoon DA9R
30-05-2011, 02:46 PM
Hey mooshie, since i moved house a few times i actually couldn't find the stickers anymore i'll let u know if they pop up tho SORRY
mooshie
30-05-2011, 09:33 PM
All good, TBH I had actually forgotten all about it! Would be keen to get a couple if you do come across them again though.
91type-r can you post a link to the shop you used? I am looking at re doing my suspension at the moment and would be keen to know of another resource.
citran
30-05-2011, 10:38 PM
anyone wanna do a ls vtec?
I'd be interested in this if I hadn't just bought brand new aftermarket exhaust pipe + intermediatary pipe and auto->manual conversion kit for mine :)
stevo716
30-05-2011, 11:01 PM
I'd be interested in this if I hadn't just bought brand new aftermarket exhaust pipe + intermediatary pipe and auto->manual conversion kit for mine :)
ah cool, but how does any of those mods affect an ls vtec?
citran
01-06-2011, 07:45 AM
ah cool, but how does any of those mods affect an ls vtec?
good point but at time I didn't have funds to consider it....now however I am more open to it :)
ben11
04-06-2011, 03:59 PM
Researching B18C into a da. If you use the s80 gearbox, what axles would you use if you were also converting the brakes to the 5 stud Type R brakes? Type R axles?
might be a stupid question, cheers anyway
91type-r
09-06-2011, 04:47 PM
hey do any of you fellow DA9ers know how to adjust the headlights vertically? due to how low my car is i dont get much distance from them as they are pointing lower than most cars.
Any help would be appreciated.
mooshie
09-06-2011, 08:01 PM
Ben, you would need to run the larger post '98 axles (36mm not 32mm).
Careful when you go converting the hubs on the DA as it is not simply a bolt on affair unless you are happy to run silly +ve camber. to do it properly you should get the hubs from the DC machined to fit the DA knuckle and not just swap the whole knuckle over. really good guide here- http://technet.ff-squad.com/how-to/5lug.ef-da/ most people prefer to just get the caliper machined and predule disks re drilled to 4x100 for about a third of the cost.
stevo716
09-06-2011, 09:01 PM
hey do any of you fellow DA9ers know how to adjust the headlights vertically? due to how low my car is i dont get much distance from them as they are pointing lower than most cars.
Any help would be appreciated.
pop ur bonnet, theres 4 holes on each light as the top
2 for hi beam, 2 for low beam
big enof to fit a phillips screwdrivers find the right one and itll do the vertical
91type-r
09-06-2011, 09:10 PM
pop ur bonnet, theres 4 holes on each light as the top
2 for hi beam, 2 for low beam
big enof to fit a phillips screwdrivers find the right one and itll do the vertical
thanks heaps mate, I will check it out tomorrow.
Spoon DA9R
15-06-2011, 12:29 PM
Researching B18C into a da. If you use the s80 gearbox, what axles would you use if you were also converting the brakes to the 5 stud Type R brakes? Type R axles?
might be a stupid question, cheers anyway
if you have a look at one of my old thread on my car you'll find some details on the dc2r 5 stud conversion.
my recommendation, don't do it unless you plan do it it properly which is a lot of work.
as mooshie said..if you do it the lazy way ( like me rushing it for the track) u'll get stupid +ve camber
adriano10
15-06-2011, 07:59 PM
Hey boys just wondering is there any stock intake manifold which will fit on the b18a like a b16a one?
stevo716
15-06-2011, 08:03 PM
Hey boys just wondering is there any stock intake manifold which will fit on the b18a like a b16a one?
any of the non vtec ones,
b18a b18b b20
b16a or any vtec ones will not
kikxz
23-06-2011, 09:51 PM
been looking at S/C or turbo my left over B18A1 , basically i read a few threads about turboing or supercharging it,
a guy wrote this in hondaswap:
well, its not the # of hp gained, its when and where the hp is gained.
100 hp from a blower is great, but front wheel drive cars like ours benefit from maxemizing their strenghts, and dealing with loads of low end power and torque is not one of them.
"If you decided to turbo your car and gained lets say 90hp (just to prove my point) the power wouldnt come right away (turbo lag) but it would be available from 3krpms to your redline (unlike a blower which becomes less effective as more stress is put on the crank pulley).
One thing to consider with a frontwheel drive car is the issue of traction. If you cant get traction you arent going to go anywhere so to speak, and in this case, a turbo would be your friend, because you will be able to hook up nice off the line and then your power will kick in.
hope that helps"
does this sum up the diff between the 2? lolz
thanking you guys
Yeah its way to hard to find a supercharger, say jackson racing charger for the DA unless you have a vtec inside, they are more readily available with a price.
you can custom modify a SC14 Toyota charger with custom brackets etc but way to much extra work. Best bet is to go boost lol
DA9-47
24-06-2011, 06:04 AM
yeah i had a look around and i think boost is the way to go man,
S/C too much bullshit,
quick question, the 3 bolts on the standard I/M on b18a that the fuel rail sits on , can they come out? i heard that you can use two bolts to get it off ,
just wondering if they do come out
cheers
=)
stevo716
24-06-2011, 09:27 AM
quick question, the 3 bolts on the standard I/M on b18a that the fuel rail sits on , can they come out? i heard that you can use two bolts to get it off ,
just wondering if they do come out
cheers
=)
yeh man they come out, 2 bolts lock em togehter then take them off that way.
if ur not gonna reuse, vice grips will do
DA9-47
24-06-2011, 07:01 PM
sweet cheers man, yeah i tried it a while ago but couldn't budge it, will try again
thanks man
citran
24-06-2011, 08:30 PM
anyone know good places for DA9 body kits either single or whole sets?
mooshie
25-06-2011, 06:19 PM
do you mean OEM or aftermarket? I may have an Black Widow (looks like my avatar) kit for sale soon... if I can figure out how to fit the oil cooler and intercooler into a standard front bar w/OEM lip.
TBH, I would not put a kit on a DA nowadays
stocky
25-06-2011, 11:32 PM
do you mean OEM or aftermarket? I may have an Black Widow (looks like my avatar) kit for sale soon... if I can figure out how to fit the oil cooler and intercooler into a standard front bar w/OEM lip.
TBH, I would not put a kit on a DA nowadays
I've fit it with my coolers before, cut the grille out and trim the lip a tad to clear the intercooler. A bracket can be made to fit the oil cooler behind the left hand vent.
mooshie
26-06-2011, 09:18 AM
Yeah, I know it can be done, its just the hassle of actually doing it! I have a spare front bar to practise and experiment with so will get around to it eventually
citran
26-06-2011, 12:18 PM
do you mean OEM or aftermarket? I may have an Black Widow (looks like my avatar) kit for sale soon... if I can figure out how to fit the oil cooler and intercooler into a standard front bar w/OEM lip.
TBH, I would not put a kit on a DA nowadays
Yeah it probably look better as is with just a touch-up paint job after getting rid of tiny rust marks near rear window :) Need to push out my right front headlight area aswell thx to stupid person in corolla decided to quickly stop in front of me last year and since then bonnet sits about 1-2cm up from original position but still good.
After the amount i've spent on the car this year it couldn't hurt lol
91type-r
27-06-2011, 09:24 PM
All good, TBH I had actually forgotten all about it! Would be keen to get a couple if you do come across them again though.
91type-r can you post a link to the shop you used? I am looking at re doing my suspension at the moment and would be keen to know of another resource.
http://stores.ebay.com.au/worldsuspension
Here is the link to their ebay store.
Parts are good quality and have made a big improvement in steering feel.
this is the parts I bought:
4 Tie Rod ends ACURA INTEGRA 90-93 OUTER INNER RACK END
roughly $90 aus landed in brisbane.
Postage took about a week to arrive.
hope that helps!
mooshie
28-06-2011, 07:45 PM
Great thanks!
espionage85
06-07-2011, 01:31 PM
change of mind,
im loosing well over 10k if i sell
Jon_51
11-07-2011, 02:10 PM
if you have a look at one of my old thread on my car you'll find some details on the dc2r 5 stud conversion.
my recommendation, don't do it unless you plan do it it properly which is a lot of work.
as mooshie said..if you do it the lazy way ( like me rushing it for the track) u'll get stupid +ve camber
to do it properly isn't that hard... the back is just a straight swap... for the front you just get the hubs machined to accept da9 bearings so you can use the da9 knuckles. new wheel bearings added a couple hundred dollars to the swap.
my engine mounts are shagged ... should I go the energy suspension inserts? any idea what a workshop should charge to change them?
stevo716
11-07-2011, 04:03 PM
to do it properly isn't that hard... the back is just a straight swap... for the front you just get the hubs machined to accept da9 bearings so you can use the da9 knuckles. new wheel bearings added a couple hundred dollars to the swap.
my engine mounts are shagged ... should I go the energy suspension inserts? any idea what a workshop should charge to change them?
innovative engine mounts there greats,
pretty cheap too
http://www.swapshopracing.com/ check em out
mooshie
11-07-2011, 07:09 PM
ES inserts just go over the existing rubber and attach with things like cable ties. They won't work very well with already broken mounts as they are designed to restrict movement not hold the joint together. They are easy to install and no need for a shop.
Full replacement mounts would be a better option and if you are not worried about harshness or vibration then go for the urethane (innovative etc) ones, although I have heard varying stories on how harsh they actually are. Otherwise just go OEM.
Replacement is fairly easy with a socket set, couple of extensions and a couple of jacks and stands. Rear mount is a bitch, but I think there are a few how-tos on here which are the same for B-series motors
stevo716
11-07-2011, 08:00 PM
lol ill vouche for the harshness of innovative mounts lol bit stiff, but im runnin 75a too soo yeh
stevo716
13-07-2011, 12:07 PM
after quick searchin,
i think ive answered it myself, but chuck wanna confirm
for the da9, i gotta drop my tank to change the fuel pump ey?
mooshie
13-07-2011, 07:03 PM
Correct, pain in the ass to do.
stevo716
13-07-2011, 10:17 PM
bleh lame....
ben11
14-07-2011, 07:27 PM
whats the deal with cut & polishing, do da's have a clear coat?
hondapop
16-07-2011, 05:54 PM
I have a problem with the brakes on my 89 DA9. After replacing the pads on all 4 wheels and replacing the fluid (full bleed), I now have a spongy pedal once the engine is running (sinks to the floor). I have rebled 3 times without success and have now just replaced the M/cyl (new) with the same result. The old one had no sign of leaks and this advise to replace was given by a brake specialist. (I didn't buy the new one off him so he didn't gain anything by it). The strange thing about it is when driving around the back yard with and without the booster in circuit there is a definite difference with the booster in circuit. Got me stumped.
I should add that after bleeding and without the engine running the pedal feels absolutely perfect.
stevo716
16-07-2011, 06:02 PM
yeh i get the same thing, i know exactly wat u mean
ppl have said my booster is dying, i havnt got around to changing it tho.
i still brake perfectly fine, just pedal feels like crap
hondapop
16-07-2011, 06:38 PM
Gidday Stevo, yes, the booster was my first thought (The M/cyl has been everyone else's. Even the brake guy was doubtful). I was getting vibration from the brakes under moderately hard braking (why I checked the pads).
Everyone I've asked about the booster has said when they go you get a hard pedal (loose boost). I had this sort of thing happen a long time ago and the effect was that when you pressed the pedal it actually pushed back at you. At that time the diagnosis was the booster (and correct). Unfortunately I don't like my chances of pulling up in a hurry with the way they are especially as the pedal doesn't "pump up" as it would if it was just a bit of trapped air.
stevo716
16-07-2011, 06:47 PM
my whole system is brand new except the master and ive bled it alot
pretty sure boosters can die different ways
the obvious one is not working anymore not giving vacumm u get ur stiff pedal
i get same as u tho, with car off, the pedal feels perfect, i cant push in at all.
but once its on, (with extra then i wud normally brake with) i can push it all the way down
just had a quick google search u might find this interesting
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIQIBLGoZJ4&feature=channel_video_title
hondapop
16-07-2011, 07:51 PM
I just had a look at that one stevo. I shall give it a go. Will try anything before attempting the struggle that it is to replace the booster (especially getting the pivot pin and split pin back in)
menacer
16-07-2011, 08:10 PM
hey guys from a mechanical veiwpoint it really shouldnt be the booster... even if the internal valves fail it would not let the pedal travel much (if any) further. most probable causes would be master cylinder seals, old soft flexable hoses or as previously mentioned air in system.
mooshie
16-07-2011, 11:29 PM
Maybe take the vaccum hose off the booster and see what happens. Should be really hard. If not then you know its something wrong with the fluid side of things.
hondapop
17-07-2011, 10:42 AM
Gidday menacer and mooshie. Replaced the M/cyl yesterday (original had no leaks when I took it out)with a new one, and I have driven it with the booster working and with it blocked off with no change(brakes are working in both instances but very poorly). One of the members on CRXAus posted up some tests for the system from the W/shop manual which I will try today and I also saw on a UK forum (also referred) regarding the adjustment of the rear caliper piston (I may not have adjusted it up close enough to the pads when I installed them). Going to also check the hoses for expanding under booster pressure. So I'll let you know how I get on.
menacer
17-07-2011, 12:06 PM
hmm. caliper piston adjustment is a possibility. however if its that then you should have no rear brakes untill approx 1/4 pedal travel... lines are still quite likely the problem.
hondapop
17-07-2011, 06:00 PM
HOORAY for Youtube, your find stevo seems to have done the trick. After going over everything, doing the tests and checking the rear calipers (which were as tight as they could be) I took it out to a quiet spot and did what "eric the car guy" said and it seems to have worked. Is locking up the front wheels and the pedal feels firmer with less travel. Reading elsewhere this should improve, so fingers crossed.
stevo716
17-07-2011, 07:31 PM
haha mad cool cool
DA9teg
18-07-2011, 11:27 AM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvYE8WlfJMU&feature=channel_video_title
><!
DA9-47
20-07-2011, 03:17 PM
Who's car that???^^^
menacer
21-07-2011, 09:44 AM
http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z456/DA9-47/Mobile%20Uploads/zzzz.jpg original locations
hey guys puttin on my skunk2 manifold (ignore numbers in pic, i just reused da9-47's) n wondering about vacuum line for fuel pressure reg. on factory manifold it comes from back of manifold up to round black thing(servo of sum kind??) then to pressure reg.
on new manifold it appears it comes from front of manifold near pressure reg.
do i have to run line via 'round black thing' or can i bypass it n go straight from manifold to pressure reg???
stevo716
21-07-2011, 10:53 AM
before tune i had it running through the solenoid, but it was affect stuff in the tune so i got rid of it. vacuum straight to fuel pressure reg
menacer
21-07-2011, 11:31 AM
cool think i will bypass it... if theres issues i can always change it back.
hondapop
21-07-2011, 07:59 PM
Got a new problem since the brakes are now sorting themselves out.
Went to engage S4 (sportsshift) today but nothing happened, no dash indicator showing and no engagement. Dash indicator is coming on for a few seconds when ignition is turned on before starting so at least the bulb is OK. It's not a gearshift choice I use at all much but if anyone can shed any light on a cause would be appreciated.
Renaissance_x
21-07-2011, 08:54 PM
Would it be p plate legal in Queensland for a p plate to have a b18c7 swaped da9?
hondapop
24-07-2011, 07:13 AM
Haha. Found my answer in the Prelude forums. I had forgotten to put the shifter itself into "S" and was just pressing the button. Said I didn't use it much.
DA9 integra
28-07-2011, 09:04 AM
Hey Guys, I'm selling my DA9 if anyone is interested (in Western Sydney), its pretty immaculate with REALLY low kilometres. If youre interested check it out on carsales:
http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/private/details.aspx?__Qpb=1&SearchAction=N&MileageTo=752&Cr=2&R=11053335&__Nf=p_GeoLocation_String|GCLT%20-33.75342,150.6734%2053.2&seot=1&distance=50&silo=1011&keywords=&__Ns=pCar_RankSort_Int32|1||pCar_PriceSort_Decimal |1||pCar_Make_String|0||pCar_Model_String|0&postcode=2750&__sid=1316884784D2&YearFromShort=1634&PriceTo=443&__N=1216%201282%201622%20752%201634%20443%201557%2 01570&__Nne=15&trecs=50
menacer
28-07-2011, 10:17 PM
hey guys wat throttle bodys are you running/have u run on skunk2 pro series manifold. n wat's best in your oppinion?
stevo716
28-07-2011, 10:34 PM
hey guys wat throttle bodys are you running/have u run on skunk2 pro series manifold. n wat's best in your oppinion?
im running 68mm skunk2 on skunk2 IM
but then again im modded like crazy lol
if gonna run stock cams i wudnt go higher than 66mm
ben11
28-07-2011, 10:48 PM
Hey Guys, I'm selling my DA9 if anyone is interested (in Western Sydney), its pretty immaculate with REALLY low kilometres. If youre interested check it out on carsales:
http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/private/details.aspx?__Qpb=1&SearchAction=N&MileageTo=752&Cr=2&R=11053335&__Nf=p_GeoLocation_String|GCLT%20-33.75342,150.6734%2053.2&seot=1&distance=50&silo=1011&keywords=&__Ns=pCar_RankSort_Int32|1||pCar_PriceSort_Decimal |1||pCar_Make_String|0||pCar_Model_String|0&postcode=2750&__sid=1316884784D2&YearFromShort=1634&PriceTo=443&__N=1216%201282%201622%20752%201634%20443%201557%2 01570&__Nne=15&trecs=50
pretty pricey
menacer
29-07-2011, 07:17 AM
im running 68mm skunk2 on skunk2 IM
but then again im modded like crazy lol
if gonna run stock cams i wudnt go higher than 66mm
will probably do cams eventually, not for a while tho.
would there be much of a downside to running 68mm without cams being changed?
stevo716
29-07-2011, 02:41 PM
eh im not sure wudnt think so
DA9 integra
30-07-2011, 01:30 PM
pretty pricey
Yeah but can you show me one in better ORIGINAL condition? And with lower kilometres? Collectors item....
ben11
30-07-2011, 02:19 PM
Yeah but can you show me one in better ORIGINAL condition? And with lower kilometres? Collectors item....
i bought mine with 75k kms for 5 grand last year, all stock no problems. Your da looks really nice and all but i don't think there is that big a market for 20 year old hondas, unless you are a real enthusiast. Good luck with sale anyway!
DA9 integra
08-08-2011, 09:52 PM
i bought mine with 75k kms for 5 grand last year, all stock no problems. Your da looks really nice and all but i don't think there is that big a market for 20 year old hondas, unless you are a real enthusiast. Good luck with sale anyway!
Cool, thats what I want to know. Thanks, I'll lower the price a bit and see how it goes.
mooshie
09-08-2011, 10:09 PM
Unfortunately our cars have lost a lot of value in the last few years although this is true for the majority of the used car market.
mooshie
18-08-2011, 04:41 PM
Just a couple of pics, before and after, of what I have been working on for the last couple of days-
http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/4421/sam0766u.jpg
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/716/sam0766u.jpg/http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/638/sam0830d.jpg/http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/3946/sam0830d.jpg
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/638/sam0830d.jpg/
re doing all the bushings plus new front bearings, ball joints, camber arms, tie rod ends to go with the traction bar I installed a few months ago. saving at the moment to get an ASR subframe brace as well and possibly a set of proper coilovers to replace the Koni/GC combo I currently have.
This stuff is all off the red car, but I dont think I'll have time in the next couple of weeks to get it all on to the turbo teg. at least all the arduous and time consuming stuff is done though..
stevo716
19-08-2011, 01:17 AM
oooo pretty
DA9-47
21-08-2011, 06:03 AM
Hi guys ,
so i removed my older engine yesturday, had a bit of trouble getting g-box off it (had one rounded bolt) but its off , i need to buy a toruqe wrench 2moz so i can do up everything ive undone properly, and a clutch alignment tool? lol because the h/d clutch was only installed on the older engine less than 6 months befor car became inactive, and it still felt/feels awesome so i will check it of course but i would like to re-use it.
you could say i didnt relise how much work was involved in swapping a g-box from one motor to the next was for a first timer . im renting the engine hoist, and i only have it till monday 2pm, so im now not sure ill have the g-box on the newer engine in time to drop it in , so im thinking worst case ill have to drop newer engine in , add g-box later, only thing is i removed old motor and g-box out the top, so i would have to add g-box from the bottom ?
really wanted to have the g-box on new engine and sitting on the mounts by monday ,
ohh and the best bit is that im working night shift all weekend and monday! gotta find time to sleep in there somewhere(yeah right)
mooshie
21-08-2011, 02:40 PM
You can just get the engine mounted up and then sort out the gearbox later from underneath. bit harder than just wacking the whole thing in there at once though. cant you just keep the hoist hired for another couple of days?
maaaaark
23-08-2011, 03:54 PM
a bit of a newbie here in australia but any of you guys know where to get an exhaust system for da9? vic specific .thanks.
stevo716
23-08-2011, 04:32 PM
not many aftermarket ones, like kits
just go to a exhaust joint
2 1/4" press bend is plenty for a da
ACTI0NMAN-1
24-08-2011, 04:43 PM
I agree with stevo, i'd say 2 1/4" press, or 2" mandrel bent.
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